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Densely packed and vibrant, with far fewer expats than Hong Kong Island, the district of Mong Kok in Kowloon is renowned for its shopping and eating, not to mention its iconic neon signs. The Langham Place hotel has been a part of the neighbourhood since 2005, and the chain chose this location to transform into its first, well-being-focused Cordis hotel. The new brand encourages guests to get out and explore the nearby streets, while also offering them an oasis from the crowds.

The Langham Place hotel chain chose this location to transform into its first well-being-focused Cordis hotel.

Location, location

On one side, the hotel is connected via a walkway to a 200-store mall; on the other, you’ll find crowds of locals shopping for fresh fish and vegetables at the wet market. Complimentary daily walking tours for guests might include an evening exploration of the famous nearby Goldfish and Ladies’ markets or lunchtime tastings of popular street foods. The Mong Kok MTR (subway) station is just a short walk away.

One of the hotel's tours through Mongkok Market.

Whom you’ll meet

You’ll find Hong Kong businessmen treating clients to lunch at the upscale Ming Court restaurant; local apartment dwellers enjoying a cocktail on the spacious backyard patio, and Chinese families in town for a shopping getaway.

The sculpture Red Guards Going Forward! Making Money! by Jiang Shuo is on display in the hotel’s lobby.

Best amenity

The hotel’s more than 1,500 pieces of Chinese contemporary art turn what could be bland waiting areas into stunning galleries. Work from artists such as Wang Guangyi and Jiang Shuo, valued at more than $35-million HKD are found throughout the building. Guests can take a self-guided tour of the top 21 pieces via a complimentary box set of art cards that describe the philosophy and history of each piece. Even if you don’t do the official tour, you might find yourself missing elevators as you inspect what’s on display on various floors.

Giant Garoupa enrobed in minced shrimp. (Patrick Poon)

Eat in or eat out?

You’d be doing yourself a disservice if you skipped the in-house dining entirely. Cantonese meals at the two-Michelin-star Ming Court can be paired with one of 380 wines from 20 countries (including China) held in its cellar, while the newly made over the Place hosts diners all day, beginning with a massive, diverse and delicious breakfast buffet (start with steamed buns and congee topped with peanuts and green onions, end with Bircher muesli and stewed rhubarb). But the neighbourhood eats deserve to be explored, too; wander down the street for stinky tofu or fish balls served on a stick and eaten on the sidewalk, or hop the MTR two stops for dinner at the Temple Street Night Market.

(Michael Weber)

If I could change one thing

All of Hong Kong is prone to overdoing the air-conditioning, but glacial temps in the Chuan Spa reception area had me shivering despite the welcoming cup of tea. While the therapist turned on an electric blanket during a thoroughly enjoyable massage, the so-called relaxation room she led me to after was just as chilly, driving me back to the changing rooms when I would rather have been enjoying the twinkling city views and my post-massage glow. A First-World problem, to be sure, but one that’s easily rectified by adjusting the thermostat or at least offering cozy blankets in addition to the robes and slippers.

Cordis Hong Kong, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, Kowloon, Hong Kong, cordishotels.com/hongkong. 664 rooms from $2,550 HKD ($429 Canadian).

The writer was a guest of the hotel.