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The Kanwara Huts (3976 metres elevation) offer a comfortable acclimatizing base en route to the peaks and glaciers of El Cocuy National Park in eastern Colombia.Mark Sissons/The Globe and Mail

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Rustic Hacienda La Esperanza is a family operated working ranch and guesthouse offering guided hikes along the edge of El Cocuy National Park.Mark Sissons/The Globe and Mail

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The eerie, endangered giant Frailejon plant lives at high altitude in the páramo ecosystems of Colombia, Venezuela and Ecuador.Mark Sissons/The Globe and Mail

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For decades El Cocuy locals like my hiking guide, Berthilda, were caught up in the struggle between the army and guerrillas for control of the park.Mark Sissons/The Globe and Mail

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A burro greets guests at historic Hotel Hacienda del Salitre, a former monastery and headquarters of Colombia’s founder, Simón Bolivar.Mark Sissons/The Globe and Mail

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