This latest property from Israel’s boutique operator Atlas Hotels (with spots in Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and Eilat) is already a buzzy draw in the quickly gentrifying Jaffa district, a storied Ottoman Empire heirloom at the southernmost end of Tel Aviv. (That said; Jaffa dates millenniums before the 1500s. We’re talking 7,500 BC-old.) With deep religious roots and raucous bars that practically don’t close, this biblical mix of ancient and new is what Israel is known for – and is beautifully reflected in the hotel’s lobby, where sections of glass flooring reveal the remains of a Byzantine chapel.
Location, location
With the Old City, Jaffa Flea Market and famous Dr. Shakshuka restaurant steps away – not to mention the Jaffa Clock Tower, churches, artist enclave, park and the port – you could stay within blocks of the hotel and fill your days. But you’re also about a six-minute walk to the beach, though this end sees more surfing than swimming. Stroll about 10 minutes more down Tel Aviv’s newly renovated promenade and you’re in the heart of the most vibrant beach strip in the Middle East. Make like the locals and grab a falafel and a Coke and play matkot (beach paddleball) for hours.
Design
The lobby is a relaxing draw, with comfortable chairs and couches for lounging, a lending library and even more comfy reading nooks on the floor above reception. Rooms are small and vaguely colonial with whitewashed cladding on ceilings boasting outsized fans, wainscoting on the walls and subway-tiled bathrooms making for soothing surroundings with artful touches, such as a stack of bedside design books. White pegs hold straw hats and Market House-branded cotton shopping bags for functional charm. Score a room with a balcony overlooking the souk (market) and sip an espresso as you watch the glorious chaos below.
Best amenity
The hotel gives out beach kits – a bag with a towel and a bottle of water, so you can save your shekels for more shopping in the souk.
If I could change one thing
The hotel lends out bikes, which is great, but – as has been my experience with most hotels that are nice enough to rent out free bikes – the constant use means the bikes are worn to the point of taking your life in your hands should you ride them.
Eat in or eat out
Breakfast in Israel is a celebration, and that’s the case here. Expect everything from granola to bourekas, halva to cheesecake and omelettes made to order. There’s also a free evening happy hour, with local cheeses, wines and fruit, to be taken in the main floor eating area or on the street-side patio. But then get out there and eat your way through the city’s rich culinary heritage, from Said Abulafiya & Sons, an Arab bakery (since 1897), to Carmel Market, plus beachfront restaurants such as the seafood-centric Manta Ray.
Whom you'll meet
Word has gotten out about this new property. So, you’ll meet well-heeled Brooklynites, locals on romantic getaways, British gals on holiday, and lots of American and Canadian families. Basically, people touring a unique country, who want lodgings to match.
Market House Hotel, Jaffa, 5 Beit Eshel St., Tel Aviv, atlas.co.il, 44 rooms from $220 (U.S.)
The writer was a guest of the Centre for Israel & Jewish Affairs.