If you’ve never been to the Charente-Limousin region of France (or couldn’t wager a guess about its location on a map), don’t feel dismayed; it isn’t the most popular of French locales. It may not have the romantic remoteness of Provence or the viticulture reputation of the Loire Valley, but it does have lush farmland, blissfully few foreign tourists and a new luxury property: the Domaine des Etangs. The restored 11th-century château is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World and offers seven suites, Michelin-star dining and plenty of on-site activities on its 850 hectares of woodlands and lakes. Relaxing Gallo-Roman thermal baths, horseback riding and yoga give you little reason to leave the estate. If ever there were a place to feel like royalty, without the obsequious service that typically goes with it, it’s here.
LOCATION, LOCATION
If you’re lucky, you’ll get an introduction to the region’s pastoral farmland through the window of a vintage Citroën DS Pallas, one of the cars used to transfer guests (gratis) from the Angoulême train station or Limoges airport, both about a 50-minute drive. The highlights of the surrounding area include exploring the Château de la Rochefoucauld and the contemporary art museum with the 15th-century Château de Rochechouart.
But you don’t book Domaine des Etangs (named for its seven ponds, or étangs) for its immediate environs, you reserve (for as many days as the wallet will allow) for disconnected bliss; Internet connection is reliably weak. It’s a chance to reconnect with nature and indulge in a culinary experience that’s well worth an extended stay.
EAT IN OR EAT OUT?
The food is ostensibly the leading draw to the property, whether or not you’re spending the night. Fabien Beaufour’s cooking at Dyades, awarded a Michelin star in February, reflects a deep reverence for the local terroir and his menu predominantly features produce from the property’s organic garden.
And while there are enough options (à la carte or in one of several tasting menus) for guests to order something different each day of their stay, eating at any formal establishment day after day becomes not only expensive but dull. So make sure to take advantage of Beaufour’s tailor-made meals and snacks – fresh sandwiches on homemade bread, garden salads, soups – that can be put together for a picnic on the grounds, in your guest room or in common spaces of the Château.
IF I COULD CHANGE ONE THING
The music selection in the restaurant during my stay featured a compilation of instrumentals from film soundtracks (think: My Heart Will Go On without Celine). It’s incongruous to the dining experience.
DESIGN
The medieval castle was the former vacation home of the late French billionaire Didier Primat. After his death in 2008, his daughter Garance worked to turn the property into an eco-conscious retreat for travellers, a French foil to the family’s Virginia resort in the Blue Ridge Mountains, Primland. She restored the château with the help of Parisienne architect Isabelle Stanislas, who tapped local craftsmen for the job, preserving the structure’s stonework and exposed beams. The singular character of the common spaces – from the lavish dining room and cigar room to the well-stocked library and the commodious game room in the converted attic – is owed entirely to the curated selection of contemporary art, photography and antique artifacts, most of which are from Garance’s personal collection. These pieces also adorn the château’s seven suites.
BEST AMENITY
It depends greatly on your interests – some will be wowed by the sexy two-person glass shower in the Venus suite in the Château, while others will be endlessly entertained by the massive game room on the top floor, kitted out with a billiards table and card tables, vintage trunks full of board games and toys.
WHOM YOU’LL MEET
You’ll find stage actors on tour across France, locals from the region who came specifically to try Fabien Beaufour’s cooking (and those for whom the Michelin guide dictates their travels), and young families who know their children and pets will have ample space to play without disrupting the Zen of other guests.
Domaine des Etangs, Le Bourg, Massignac, France; domainedesetangs.com; 29 rooms from $832 (€570).
The writer was a guest of the hotel.