Forget that idea of old imperial Victoria. Yes, you can have high tea at the regal Fairmont Empress, but also spicy salmon tacones at Red Fish, Blue Fish – a converted shipping container on the dock. The new Victoria is a port of call for foodies of all ages and persuasions. Here are the culinary destinations, old and new, that have the city buzzing, with a few stops in between to help you regain your appetite.
Red Fish, Blue Fish
Approach this takeout joint from behind, and you'll see two cargo containers sitting on the dock alongside big recycling and composting bins. Get closer and you'll see people – not seagulls – buzzing around, placing orders, downing first servings and ordering more to take home. The most popular item is the barbecued wild salmon tacones . One bite and you'll see why. The taste of the grill on the wrap and the unexpected flavours inside (sweet-smoked chili adobo, pea shoots and lemon pickled onions) will have you wishing you could stay and soak up the view of kayakers, float planes, sailboats and old-fashioned tour boats in the inner harbour, while testing all the fare on the sustainable Ocean Wise menu. (The Fanny Bay Oyster Sandwich, with golden shallot aioli, tartar, tempura dill pickle and lemon pickled onions, comes highly recommended.) But the harbour is beautiful, the autumn sun is shining, twentysomethings are singing on the breakwall, and the next food stop is calling your name. 1006 Wharf St. (on the pier); 250-298-6877; www.redfish-bluefish.com.
Café Bliss
Next is the restaurant granola foodies rave about. Everything here is organic, raw, as locally sourced as possible – and, if my small sampling is an indication, surprisingly delicious. The corn salad with avocado, shredded carrot and greens packs an unannounced heat that gives depth and strength. Salad for dinner? After a day of travel, it does a body good. But do pick up unbaked sweet treats for a pre-breakfast nibble – the coconut-mango balls are especially fortifying. 556 Pandora Ave.; 250-590-5733; www.cafebliss.ca.
An evening coffee
Instead of a Starbucks on every corner, Victoria has its share of London-like, long-countered cafés. Get a strong coffee to go and stumble into what has to be one of Canada's best bookstores: Munro's Books. Owned by Jim Munro, ex-husband of author Alice Munro, this independent carries a terrific selection and the ambience makes time and other customers disappear. 1108 Government St.; 888-243-2464; www.munrosbooks.com.
ReBar
Start your second day with a fortifying breakfast at ReBar. On a Friday morning, this local institution is hopping. Even the reduced serving of whole wheat, buttermilk and blueberry hotcakes with a side of hash browns is enough to feed a small family. You can modify your order even further – at least with the pancakes, ordering just one or two. And that's a good idea, because the bakery counter will call your name with deep-dish peach or coconut cream pies, cookies and squares. The popular downstairs restaurant is open through dinner, and has local brews in the fridge. 50 Bastion Sq.; 250-361-9223; www.rebarmodernfood.com.
Silk Road
Poke around the shops (try Roberta's Hats, 1318 Government St., just for fun) before heading in to the Silk Road tea company for a tasting – a Victoria tradition that reaches fever peak before Christmas. The friendly staff will help you identify your favourite smells and tastes and then brew up samples of various teas for you to compare. Love the smell of toasted raisin bread? Try the Velvet Potion. Can't decide what to take home? The sample tins, at $3.99 each, brew up as many as 10 pots of tea, and are an affordable way to bring home a basket of flavours. 1624 Government St.; 250-704-2688; www.silkroadtea.com.
