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My legs looked like dragon fruits. Overnight, at least a hundred angry, itchy red bumps had popped up all over my calves.

Wonderful. I was in Thailand for a few days, first in Bangkok and then into the north for jungle adventures. But from that day on, I received the same sympathetic greeting from strangers all over Thailand: “Khun Simona, we heard you have a terrible infected skin rash.” ( Khun means Mr., Miss or Mrs.) “May I see?”

This was usually followed by, “Ohhh, my mother got something similar at the beach. She still has scars.”

I tried to reassure myself – this was nothing; many travellers have contracted far, far worse. But here was a dragon-fruit version of The Unknown. I was alone in this strange, beautiful country, and I was scared.

Ironically, this crisis of dermatology (and psychology) had resulted from one of the best experiences of my life.

His name was Boon Pak. He was just my type, a teenage male rescued from the circus. I posted pictures of us on Facebook: frolicking in the jungle, feeding each other bananas. He liked me too – I could tell by the way he laid his tusks on my shoulder the moment we met at Patara Elephant Farm.

Hidden among teak trees and rice fields an hour's drive from Chiang Mai, Patara is owned by hard-working idealist Theerapat (Pat) Trungprakan and his wife, Dao, who are passionate about elephants and employ 25 young men from the neighbouring hill as mahouts – elephant trainers. The sustainable breeding farm is home to 15 of Thailand's 3,500 domestic pachyderms. (The elephant population has been dropping steadily; only 1,200 to 1,500 more live in the wild.) In the farm's one-day excursion, visitors learn to feed, bathe, care for and ride these largest of land mammals.

Turns out I'm a natural. I rode Boon Pak like a pro, tucking my heels behind his ears and trusting him to lead me through a thunderstorm that turned the tropical jungle into a rocky mud bath, then into the waterfall for a swim. Like most adolescents, he stopped to eat every few minutes, pulling snacks of foliage from trees, and sticking his trunk into every curiosity. As did gypsies and queens before me, I relaxed into his steady rhythm. I lay flat on Boon Pak's warm back and stared up at the rain, certain I had found my destiny.

“Maybe you are an elephant,” Pat joked. Cool! Who wouldn't want to be an elephant? They're gentle, strong, smart, fun, reliable and earthy. And Buddhists say they bring luck – touching a white elephant, they believe, can lead to enlightenment.

“We believe the elephant is on top of the animal pyramid,” Dao explained. “If you are an elephant in this life, you will be a human in the next life.”

Despite their regal status, however, elephants haven't always had an easy ride. During the 17th and 18th centuries, they were the main vehicles of Southeast Asian warfare, carrying kings to battle. And in 1989, when Thailand banned logging to protect forests and ecosystems, many working elephants were abandoned by owners who couldn't afford to keep them. Poachers still hunt elephant families to kidnap the babies as tourist attractions, and for their ivory tusks.

Though some Thai charities and government programs focus on rescuing abused or domesticated elephants, for this endangered species to survive, healthy elephants also must thrive and reproduce. Four babies have been born at Patara; two were sent to live in the wild. Pat and Dao check up on them regularly, and they're doing fine.

Life goes on for the elephants, each with his or her own personality, their phases of existence quietly reflecting the human experience: making friends, coming of age, falling in love, growing old. I've always felt I can be myself with animals more so than humans, but my body won't let me – I'm allergic. To cats, dogs, horses and now, as made evident by the rash, to elephants.

“Not dangerous,” pronounced the dermatologist at Bangkok's Bumrungrad International Hospital. He sees this sort of thing all the time – although not this extreme. Apparently, I was allergic to both the elephant and his mites. The dermatologist prescribed meds and sent me on my way. So much for elephants being my destiny, I thought as I left – in contrast to the Buddhist culture around me, my worry was sounding even louder.

Luckily, Thailand is full of magical distractions: Monks wrapped in orange walk barefoot through villages at sunrise to beg for the day's food; the sounds and smells of Bangkok, motorbikes, tuk-tuks and that lack of air that makes elegant ladies (and chivalrous men) carry smelling salts; the smouldering flavours of lemon grass, tamarind, ginger and jasmine that turn a simple meal into a feast; the way people bow to one another in greeting; the ornate miniature houses – “spirit houses” – plunked in front of every home because Thais believe everything has a spirit.

Ten days later, I was starting to feel better, the red bumps starting to deflate. Along with mites, it turns out Boon Pak had brought me luck: I considered myself fortunate to have had this experience. And I was convinced I'd do it all again. This is the spirit of travel; going off into new wilds to make it on your own, facing unknown fears to grow into who you want to be.

Before I left Thailand, another doctor checked out my legs. All good. “I will remember you,” he said. “The elephant girl!”

Special to The Globe and Mail

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Pack your bags

GETTING THERE
Cathay Pacific (www.cathaypacific.com) has excellent service from Toronto to Bangkok through Hong Kong; from Bangkok, Thai Airways and Bangkok Airways connect to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.

WHERE TO STAY
Four Seasons Tented Camp P.O. Box 18, Chiang Saen Post Office; 66 (0) 53 910-200; www.fourseasons.com/goldentriangle. From about $1,800 for a minimum two-night stay. Lets you feel like a 19th-century explorer in luxurious tented accommodations. Nestled in the jungle, the all-inclusive resort operates an elephant program in conjunction with the Thai Elephant Conservation Center (www.helpingelephants.org). Elephants are brought to breakfast with guests every morning.

WHAT TO DO
Patara Elephant Farm 299/22 Siwalee Rachapreuk MaeHea; 66 (0) 819 922-551; www.pataraelephantfarm.com. About $184 for a one-day excursion.

MORE INFORMATION
www.tourismthailand.org