The Hungry Traveller

Fine Italian grub in Napa

Michael Chiarello serves up a bistecca worthy of Florence

Mercedeh Sanati

Yountville, the tiny Napa Valley town that for years has lured Michelin-star collectors and Thomas Keller devotees, is now home to the region's hottest new restaurant: chef Michael Chiarello's Bottega. Reserve a table well in advance to get a taste of Chiarello's trendy twist on hearty Italian cuisine. On a nice day, you'll want to sit on the covered terrace, which comes complete with two wood-burning stone fireplaces and comfy lounge chairs.

The menu features such must-haves as wood-grilled octopus and whole egg taglierini with Manila clams and Calabrese sausage. Those in the know say the bistecca alla fiorentina (made with grass-fed porterhouse) rivals that served in the best restaurants in Tuscany. The hot spot has a homegrown flavour too: Chiarello's executive sous-chef is Canadian Ryan McIlwraith, who earned his culinary stripes at Fleur de Lys in Las Vegas.

Chiarello himself is a culinary multitasker: He tends to the vines at the Chiarello Family Vineyards, writes cookbooks and hosts the Emmy-winning Food Network show Easy Entertaining. He also presides over NapaStyle, a retail chain that sells everything from fancy panini grills to Hawaiian red salt.

If you can't get a table at Bottega, stop by the neighbouring NapaStyle store and stock up on Chiarello's olive oil.

6525 Washington St., Yountville, Calif.; 707-945-1050; www.botteganapavalley.com

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