Part of the cachet of Mile End is that no one is sure precisely where it begins or how it got its name. Does it lie north of St. Joseph Boulevard or Mount Royal Avenue? Is it named for the old Mile End racetrack or the neighbourhood in East London?
All we know is that Mile End is one of the more endearing and livable districts in Montreal. It's where Old Country mixes with New Media types, vegans cohabitate with kosher fishmongers, and you can spend all afternoon nursing your latte at the local Italian sports bar. The vibe is laid-back and exchanges move easily between English and French. This is quintessential Montreal.
Fortunately, it's a district that has not completely washed away its past, even in the face of an effervescent and dynamic present. On streets like St. Viateur you can still find hot bagels and a barber that cuts hair on the original 1930s chair, even if they're surrounded by shops dispensing fair-trade coffee and hand-designed chocolate.
And while Mordecai Richler remains perhaps the district's most famous son, nowadays the neighbourhood's ambassadors are Arcade Fire and other indie bands that emerged from the hothouse of the district's club scene.
As well as being home to artists and writers, Mile End is also becoming a not-so-off-the-beaten-track tourist destination. Old textile mills along St. Laurent Boulevard have been converted into restaurants, galleries and design furniture stores. The district's east-west arteries, such as Laurier, St. Viateur and Bernard, are the better walking streets; in some cases, distances between the sites are a bit spread out, so why not be like a Montrealer and bike? The immensely popular Bixi rental service operates from spring to fall.
Oh, and where is Mile End? Loosely speaking, it spreads northeast from the mountain, between Parc Avenue and St. Laurent Boulevard. Its exact boundaries are a matter of debate, but that can be the next topic of conversation at one of the neighbourhood's cafés or wine bars.
Les Touilleurs Pick up the latest gourmet cooking magazine, buy an Italian-made silicone bundt cake pan and feast your eyes on the broad selection of French enamel cookery in this gleaming, stylish kitchenware emporium. There are also made-in-Quebec maple cooking utensils. If you plan ahead (they’re booked months in advance), you can attend a cooking workshop with some of Montreal’s top chefs; the workshops are limited to 12 to keep the atmosphere intimate. 152 Laurier W.; 514-278-0008; www.lestouilleurs.com
Montréalité Let your T-shirt say Montrealer even if you aren’t one. These tees feature Montreal icons like the Jacques Cartier Bridge, the Orange Julep and a representation of poutine. They’re 100-per-cent cotton. 51 Bernard St. W.; 514-510-9907; www.montrealite-tshirts.com
Don't just walk the neighbourhood, wear it with T-shirts from the Montrealite boutique.
Wilensky’s Think of Wilensky’s as a museum to the memory of the old neighbourhood. The decor is frozen in time and the menu has barely evolved. Park yourself in a counter stool once occupied by Mordecai Richler, the local boy who made the ’hood famous. And bite into the Wilensky’s salami and bologna sandwich, which has defiantly resisted food fads and health trends since it was first concocted in 1932. A sign helpfully reminds you that the sandwiches are always served with mustard: “Don’t ask why, just understand that this is nothing new. This is the way that it’s been since 1932.” To complete the nostalgia tour, drop into Fairmount Bagel down the street or amble up to St-Viateur Bagel a block north. Wilensky’s Light Lunch, open weekdays only, 34 Fairmount Ave. W.; 514-271-0247
Buvette Chez Simone This spot used to be a neighbourhood dive known as Skala. Now it’s a trendy-but-unpretentious wine bar with good food and reasonable prices. The crowd tilts toward twentysomethings, who keep the ambience loud and convivial; you may end up sharing one of the communal tables with one of them. Dishes like risotto with beets and blue cheese, or garlic leeks with eggs and bacon, can be ordered in half or full portions. The wine list, written on a blackboard, changes regularly. 4869 Parc Ave.; 514-750-6577; www.buvettechezsimone.com
The Galerie Simon Blais features emerging and well-known artists.
Galerie Simon Blais If the entranceway looks like a factory loading dock, it’s because it was; the original Loading Zone sign is still on the brick wall. Getting a glimpse into St. Laurent Boulevard’s roots in the rag trade is only one reason to visit. The gallery showcases emerging Quebec artists as well as well-known figures such as abstract expressionist Jean-Paul Riopelle. 5420 St. Laurent Blvd.; 514-849-1165; www.galeriesimonblais.com
Casa del Popolo This neighbourhood landmark, which turns 10 this year, bills itself as part concert venue, part bar and part art gallery; it’s also a vegetarian restaurant. No gloss here; the worn couches near the entrance set the cozy tone. It has built a reputation for promoting indie music talent. 4873 St. Laurent Blvd.; 514-284-3804; www.casadelpopolo.com
Katrin LeBlond's boutique full of funky and feminine finds.
Katrin Leblond The clothes by this Montreal-born designer manage to be both funky and feminine. They’re playfully accented with splashes of colour and whimsy, so it’s no surprise to learn that Ms. Leblond designed clothes for circus performers at a private Cirque du Soleil party. This is a fun place to shop and browse, with plenty of accessories and jewellery, too. Check out the fabric rosette pins. 4647 St. Laurent Blvd.; 514-678-9616; www.katrinleblond.com
