Never mind the Marais. Paris's historic Jewish quarter on the Right Bank was hip not long ago, but today the chain stores are moving in fast. Venture instead a little further north, into the developing Haut Marais. Here, in a dense maze of medieval streets, you'll find a quaint mix of shops, galleries and cafés: Artists sit next to old-timers at favourite haunts such as the Moroccan restaurant Chez Omar.
In the Haut Marais, established shops around an old market have been joined by stylish boutiques.
The best places to eat, drink, and to be seen are around the Marché des Enfants Rouges, the city's oldest covered market. Enter the glass-covered market square through a picturesque 19th-century cast-iron gate, wander around and admire the piles of clementines and fresh French walnuts, the flower stalls and the fishmongers, or enjoy a café and watch the chic crowds bustle past.
Thanks very much
The huge concept store Merci sells everything you really don't need but would like to have. The selection includes fine stationery, books, fashion – including Stella McCartney dresses – household utensils and furniture, such as Tolix chairs, those staples of French cafés. Merci boasts a restaurant and an in-house bookstore with a café. 111 boul. Beaumarchais; 33 (1) 42 77 00 33; www.merci-merci.com.
Comme il faut
A must for fashion aficionados, Black – the latest venture of cult fashion label Comme des Garçons – is a pop-up shop offering all black clothing and accessories, with a token touch of white, in a make-do interior of tube lights, steel bars and painted plywood partitions. 7 rue du Perche.
Kids' stuff
Whether you have children or not, it's fun to browse the selection at Gomina – cute clothing by Muchacha and American College colourful mini Doc Martens, plus loads of cuddly animals and a great selection of toys and games sourced worldwide. 36 rue de Saintonge.
A curiosity shop
The fascinating shop Les Fées resembles a curiosity cabinet – with tableware by Emma Challier, stuffed birds, bone china vases by Rose van de Velde, and a range of stylish furnishings. Don't miss the basement, where you'll find slippers, hot-water-bottle covers, French-style curtains in iconic Les Toiles du Soleil fabric and rustic furniture by Henri Quinta. 19 rue Charlot; 33 (6) 12 59 22 47.
Classic café
Local creatives come to the old-school Café Charlot to hang out in its beautiful 1920s interior and drink at the real zinc bar. From the terrace – heated in winter – you can watch les madames with their shopping trolleys and little dogs, stylish mademoiselles on their bicycles and young intellectuals in deep discussion – while enjoying the café's excellent hamburgers and crispy frites. 38 rue de Bretagne; 33 (1) 44 54 03 30.
A sweet Rose
Rose Bakery offers fresh fruit juices and great salads, all made on the premises. A not-so-French treat: scrumptious scones, served with cream and homemade jam. A spare but unpretentious interior and very friendly staff. 30 rue Debelleyme; 33 (1) 49 96 54 01.
Collectors' items
See some of the latest interior design and decor ideas at The Collection. The shop is a showcase for talented young European designers such as Lizzie Allen, Claire Coles and Aurélie Mathigot, whose collage wallpaper features embroidered buttons and real postcards. Cheer up your table with graphic-patterned placemats and coasters by Belgian designer Charlotte Lancelot. The Collection's helpful, knowledgeable staff are happy to tell you about the designers and their creations. 33 rue de Poitou; 33 (0)1 42 77 04 20; www.thecollection.fr.
Go Red
The small and charming bistro Les Enfants Rouges has two entrances; enter from the street and you can leave through the side door into a series of small courtyards with ateliers and workshops. It serves classic French food such as pâté de campagne, lapin sauté and beef bourguignon, and has an impressive wine list featuring smaller producers. A local favourite. 90 rue des Archives; 33 (1) 48 87 80 61.
Art in the house
The Hotel de Retz, a grand 17th-century residence that later became a handicraft centre, today hosts excellent exhibitions of contemporary art and photography and cultural events. Check out a current exhibition on designer and gallerist Pierre Staudenmeyer at the gallery, then recharge in the colourful “petit café” created by French designer Christian Biecher. 9 rue Charlot; 33 (1) 48 04 37 99; www.passagederetz.com.
Special to The Globe and Mail
The Hotel du Petit Moulin.
Where to stay
Hotel du Petit Moulin 31 rue de Poitou; 33 (1) 42 74 10 10; www.hoteldupetitmoulin.com. From $288. A delightful hotel with lavish décor by couturier Christian Lacroix. It incorporates a small café housed in a former bakery.
Murano Resort Paris 13 boulevard du Temple; 33 (1) 42 71 20 00; www.muranoresort.com. From $467. A favourite hangout for the fashion crowd and design groupies. If you're not staying here, head to the lively lounge bar for a cocktail.
