At the end of my journey, I visited the scrolls themselves. They're housed on a rotating basis in their own circular space, called the Shrine of the Book, adjacent to the Israel Museum in West Jerusalem. The low, dimly lit structure is topped by a dome that is supposed to resemble the top of a jar, but looks a lot like a flying saucer. The futuristic touch is a good fit with the treasures under glass, which come from the ancient past but have yet to yield all their secrets.
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If you go
Getting there
Air Canada and El Al run direct flights from Toronto to Tel Aviv.
Where to stay
Hotel Daniel, Dead Sea This four-star hotel is across the street from the Dead Sea and has a spacious spa with mud treatments, a Turkish steam room and several different pools, one with Dead Sea water, the other with a Jacuzzi. Ein Bokek, 08-6689999. www.tamareshotels.co
Shkedi’s Camp Lodge and Desert Tours Jeep tours in and around the Dead Sea and the Negev by day, and tents with mattresses, cushions and a fireplace to ward off the winter chill by night. Washrooms and hot showers are outside the tents. www.shkedig.com.
The David Citadel Hotel Jerusalem’s most opulent hotel, designed by architect Moshe Safdie, overlooks the ancient walls of the Old City and is a few minutes walk from Jaffa Gate. Not to miss: the extravagant buffet breakfasts with eggs, cheeses, smoked fish, a cornucopia of fresh salads, breads and pastries. 7 King David St., Jerusalem; 972 2 621 1111; www.TheDavidCitadel.com.
Where to eat
American Colony Hotel Cellar Bar This former pasha’s palace is a boutique hotel with an East-meets-West feel; the famous bar draws the desperados of the foreign press. 1 Louis Vincent St., Jerusalem. 972 2 627 9777; www.americancolony.com.
The Olive and Fish Restaurant The decor is low-key elegant, and the menu emphasizes fresh fish and vegetables. Start with the small plates of artichoke salad, sweet potato and chili, fried cauliflower, white beans and eggplant with tahini. Aside from fish, there is chicken and meat. The wine list is impressive. 2 Jabotinski St., 02 566 5020; www.2eat.co.il/eng/oliveandfish
Maoz Falafel Not all falafel in Israel is good, but this takeout place with a few tables outdoors is outstanding. The falafel balls are fresh, and so are the free add-ons: pickled carrots and beets, peppers, eggplant, onions, tomatoes; red and green sauces come in various strengths. To wash it down, buy a fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice from the juice bar around the corner on Ben Yehuda Street. 19 King George St., Jerusalem; 02 625 7706.
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The scrolls at the ROM
Can't make it to the Qumran caves? Dead Sea Scrolls: Words that Changed the World opens at the Royal Ontario Museum next Saturday. Over six months, 17 scrolls will be rotated into exhibition.
This presentation – of what has been called the most important archeological discovery of the 20th century – includes not only the scrolls but artifacts found in the caves, a series of debates with noted authors Camille Paglia, Christopher Hitchens and A.J. Jacobs, and lectures by renowned scholars including:
Yuval Peleg, an archeologist set to publish findings on the pottery making site at Qumran (July 2);
Dan Bahat, former district archeologist for Jerusalem (July 23);
Emanuel Tov, editor-in-chief of the Dead Sea Scrolls Publication Project and Bible professor at Hebrew University (Nov. 15);
Walid Saleh, an associate professor of religion at the University of Toronto (Dec. 10).
For younger visitors, the ROM is planning hands-on digs and other activities to be offered on specially themed weekends throughout the summer.
To purchase tickets and for more information, visit www.rom.on.ca/scrolls.
Special to The Globe and Mail
Editor's note: The original version of this article incorrectly identified Herod the Great. This version has been corrected.
