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As they gear up to become America's first family, the Obamas are faced with countless decisions. Confirming his cabinet will be the first major task for the new president, while deciding on the best schools for daughters Malia and Sasha will help to ensure a smooth transition into their dramatically changed lives (also on the to-do list is choosing the presidential puppy).

But with the inauguration just 10 days away, it is Michelle Obama's choice of dress that is generating the hottest buzz.

Not unlike the pre-Oscar red carpet speculation, the question of who the 44-year-old lawyer will wear has been a burning topic on blogs and fashion sites. Women's Wear Daily has invited the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors to submit gown sketches, which range from elegant creations in winter white to over-the-top flag-inspired disasters in red, white and blue. While the ultimate choice remains top secret, the obvious question is whether Obama will go with a White House-hold name such as Oscar de la Renta or, in keeping with her track record, opt for Chicago favourite Maria Pinto or perhaps another under-the-radar American talent.

Why it's all such a big deal has more to do with culture than it does with labels.

For months now, Obama has been drawing praise as a poised and unpretentious fashion icon, thanks to her knack for bouncing between high-end and mass-market clothing. By wearing emerging designers of diverse backgrounds and ethnicities - Thakoon Panichgul, Zero Maria Cornejo and Isobel Toledo among others - she demonstrates a decidedly 21st-century sensibility.

And while her inclusion on best-dressed lists supports the widespread urge to compare her to Jacqueline Kennedy, it's a misleading comparison, according to In Style magazine's fashion director, Cindy Weber-Cleary. She notes that Kennedy lived and breathed fashion, whereas Obama, as a 21st-century career woman, is focused on her overall image. "Michelle has a natural flair, but I think [fashion] doesn't have the same importance to her," Weber-Cleary says from New York.

More important to the bigger picture is that Obama's fashion cred puts her in a position to help revive an industry hit hard by the downturn; a New York Times piece on Thursday focused almost entirely on the future First Lady as the champion of a fashion bailout.

Obama also has an opportunity - some would say a responsibility - to reinforce fashion's place in the cultural mix. "What [leaders' wives] wear is so tied into cultural identity," says Jeanne Beker, host of Fashion Television and editor of FQ magazine.

Last summer, Beker introduced Laureen Harper to Canadian fashion stars Greta Constantine, Wayne Clark, Rosemarie Umetsu and Rita Tesolin. The Prime Minister's wife also placed orders with Lida Baday and Joeffer Caoc, both established but niche Toronto labels. She also favours Ottawa's Justina McCaffrey.

"I'm not saying they have to be religious about it, but for the important functions, wearing homegrown designers is the least they can do. If they're not going to do it, who is?" Beker says.

Suzanne Boyd, editor-in-chief of Zoomer magazine, notes that Kennedy got flak for wearing French fashion. She then recruited American-based Oleg Cassini as her couturier - although his designs borrowed from Hubert de Givenchy.

Being a sartorial ambassador isn't just symbolic, Boyd says. "[Fashion] is a part of the economy and I think it's part of her duty."

Throwing the occasional J. Crew outfit into the mix only helps to reinforce Obama's accessibility. (The J. Crew yellow cardigan and geometric dress that she wore on The Tonight Show sold out within days.) "She's very smart," Boyd says. "And she's one of those lucky people - inexpensive things look expensive on her. It's the way she carries herself.

"I think she's really great for the fashion industry. People get excited and they go out and shop. She's going to be a role model that women can look up to. There was a never a run on anything Laura Bush wore."

Weber-Cleary notes that Obama's outfits while stumping were very photo-friendly. For the inauguration, "I think they're thinking along those lines - clean, colourful, modern, nothing too fussy and not a lot of superfluous detail. I think it [made] a statement that was very consistent with the mood of the campaign."

While her choices have been self-assured, Obama has no official stylist. Many of what have become her signatures - belts, flats, big pearls and big brooches - are distinctly her own, tailored to her tall, athletic form (she's 5-foot-11).

Pinto ascribes Obama's success to her "timeless" style. "Choosing items that are always modern and chic, Mrs. Obama possesses a natural and unpretentious sophistication," she says in an e-mail.

While Pinto hails from the heartland, some of Obama's other designer picks exist within a rarefied New York scene. Vogue's André Leon Talley reportedly steered Obama toward the lesser known names, which also include Jason Wu, Narciso Rodriguez (whose election-night red and black number inspired much debate), Peter Soronen and jewellery designer Erickson Beamon.

After the inauguration, Obama's style stalkers who check out websites such as http://www.mrs-O.org can look forward to March when, if rumours are correct, she will be appearing on the cover of Vogue. Grace Coddington, creative director at Vogue, wouldn't confirm the buzz. But she does agree that Obama has the chops. "I think her choices have always been really been good," she says from New York.

Boyd welcomes the idea of Obama as cover girl - for reasons more social than style-related. "Much like the way her husband's presidency may go a long way to ushering a post-race era in America - but won't change everything overnight - so it goes for how Michelle Obama will influence the fashion industry," she says, referring to the reluctance of fashion magazines and advertisers to use black models.

"It is well documented that women of colour spend a higher percentage of their income on fashion and beauty. Perhaps Michelle Obama's obvious love of both will drive this point home and remind people that this consumer must be spoken to."

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Style by Michelle

Brooches

Nothing takes a neckline up a notch than a single bejewelled brooch or even a smaller cluster of them. Michelle Obama favours designer Erickson Beamon, although some blogs suggest she's also a fan of vintage. Look out for the off-centre bow pin, another signature.

Pearls

Most distinctive about her pearls is their size. Are they comparable to gumballs or perhaps as large as walnuts? Either way, they're still less ostentatious than other forms of bling. One of her shining moments: layering longer strands of smaller pearls in shades of gorgeous grey.

Kitten heels

Whether attributable to her commanding 5-foot-11 height or because they feel a whole lot more comfortable than stilettos, flats and kitten heels are Obama's footwear of choice. They suggest a definite blueblood vibe, but they also come across as everyday accessible.

Cardigans

These knits take the place of structured jackets and offer a toned-down preppy layer. Her only sweater slip-up occurred on election night when the black cardigan over the Narciso Rodriguez dress looked sloppy and hid her fantastic physique.

Belts

Obama often adds a personal twist to her dresses by belting them. And not just any belt, but hip versions such as the black Azzedine Alaia number she wore with the Day-Glo mauve Maria Pinto sheath during the Democratic National Convention. Bonus points: They accentuate her trim waist.

Earrings

She avoids heavy distracting shoulder dusters in favour of leaner statement styles that draw attention to her lithe and lovely neck. Because she regularly wears her hair up in the evenings, the sparkle does not go unnoticed.