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When I read a cookbook, I want that sense of anticipation that makes my taste buds dance. It can come from the simplest books or the most complicated chef's tome. Sometimes it is just the way the recipe is written, or the attitude of the entire book.

There are also two ways of looking at cookbooks: Do they fire your imagination and make you want to cook? Or do you love to read them and savour the flavours but ignore the kitchen? If you want to cook from them, then the recipes need to work, and that can be a minefield in some cookbooks.

This year, the baking category is tops, followed closely by two captivating food memoirs (with exemplary recipes).

PURE DESSERT

By Alice Medrich, Artisan, 272 pages, $45

A brilliant teacher, Medrich imparts a sense of adventure in her search for perfection, and a thrill when she strikes the balance that excites the palate. Known for her previous books, Cocolat and Bittersweet, Medrich branches out in a new direction, organizing the book by flavour groups, from familiar citrus tastes, to flowers and leaves, grains and seeds. Shortbread purists may find the twice-baked shortbread recipe a touch too golden, but the simple yet innovative recipe produces an addictively good toffee crunch. Medrich's twists on basics, her desire always to find the best way of bringing out flavours and her more complex recipes will make this a favourite for true bakers.

A PASSION FOR BAKING

By Marcy Goldman, Oxmoor House, 320 pages, $34.95

Marcy Goldman has written the kind of book I love to have in my kitchen. With a breezy style, she unlocks the scientific mysteries of baking. You will want to make almost every dessert in the book as well as the breads. Full of excellent information especially for the beginning baker: Use double baking sheets for cookie-making and see the difference. The scones were superb, the serendipity bars serendipitously great, and I can't wait to make the cheesecake.

THE TENTH MUSE

By Judith Jones, Knopf, 290 pages, $32

After 50 years at Alfred A. Knopf, Judith Jones, the doyenne of American editors, has written a memoir. Although most closely identified as the editor of Julia Child's works, Jones edited almost every important cookbook author in the latter half of the 20th century: James Beard, Craig Claiborne, Claudia Roden, Marion Cunningham, Marcella Hazan, M. F. K. Fisher and Madhur Jaffrey are a few on a very long list.

A woman who grew up in a garlic-free zone, where discussing food was akin to talking about sex, does not seem the most likely candidate to edit the books that fuelled a food revolution. Like Julia Child, Jones arrived in Paris in 1948 and immediately fell in love with the French way of shopping for, preparing and consuming food. Back in the United States, she recognized the appeal of the work of Child, Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholde. Believing that cookbooks should have recipes that work, she began testing the recipes in the books she edited, and that continued throughout her career.

Anyone hoping for dirt on the culinary icons with whom Jones worked will be sadly disappointed. She is nothing if not discreet. She sketches vivid but miniature portraits of the giants, only hinting at contretemps.

Even if Judith Jones had edited only cookbooks, her career would be highly regarded. But at the beginning of her career, while still in France, she read a manuscript submitted by a grieving father, and heard the universal appeal in the voice of Anne Frank. A wonderful picture of both Jones and the food world.

THE SEVENTH DAUGHTER

My Culinary Journey from Beijing to San Francisco

By Cecilia Chiang with Lisa Weiss, Ten Speed Press, 240 pages, $35

A moving memoir written by a courageous woman who started life as the daughter of a well-to-do Beijing family, crossed into unoccupied China by foot after the Japanese invaded, and eventually arrived in San Francisco. An accidental restaurateur, she was led by her food memories to open one of the first elegant and sophisticated Northern Chinese restaurants there, the Mandarin.

Now in her late 80s, Chang is a woman of impeccable taste, who always wears Chanel and pearls. She has recounted the story of her fascinating life, and given us the gift of 75 easily accomplished recipes for home cooking, some from the original Mandarin.

COOK WITH JAMIE

My Guide To Making You

a Better Cook

By Jamie Oliver, Hyperion Books, 447 pages, $41.95

I have a great affection for Jamie Oliver. He works hard, he cares about his family and he is devoted to making life better for kids, especially kids from dodgy backgrounds.

This book is a kind of project, too. With humour, mouthiness and straight-shooting style, it is infused with his Jamie personality. He tries to teach us all the basics of good cooking. And he succeeds admirably. The book is a pleasure to read, you learn something on each page, and the recipes turn out well (although I found some oven times to be off). The food is bold and the recipes easy to accomplish. Truly refreshing. For new cooks and good cooks.

THE ART OF SIMPLE FOOD

Notes, Lessons, and Recipes From a Delicious Revolution

By Alice Waters, Clarkson Potter, 405 pages, $44

A serene book written by the icon of the fresh sustainable food movement. She has done more to change the awareness and the eating patterns of Americans than any other food writer. This book is beautifully written, full of information to make you a better cook and full of lovely fresh, local recipes. Probably easier to use if you are in California, with its abundance, but we can all make those adjustments. Some of the recipes are fussy (the mushroom ragout where you dice the mushrooms after cooking), but they do make sense.

CIOPPINO'S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL

A Lifetime of Excellence in the Kitchen

By Pino Posteraro, Douglas & McIntyre, 234 pages, $60

Pino Posteraro is one of the finest chefs I have had the pleasure to dine with. He owns Cioppino's restaurant in Vancouver. His food is simple, light and incredibly tasty, and he now has gathered his years of experience and put them into this visually stunning book.

Posteraro is a perfectionist, and although the recipes look simple on the page, there are no shortcuts with his meals. Still, they are worth the challenge, as the recipes work well and the final results never disappoint. Be judicious in the use of some of the seasonings. Taste as you go. His risottos are sublime. The book is all in metric, although there is a conversion chart. This is a book for the foodie who doesn't mind spending time in the kitchen.

ONE POT ITALIAN COOKING

More Than 100 Easy Authentic Recipes

By Massimo Capra, Whitecap, 192 pages, $29.95

Chef and co-owner of Mistura restaurant in Toronto, as well as a chef on TV's Restaurant Makeover, Capra has done a nifty one-pot Italian cookbook. His warmth and graciousness come through in his food. If you love Italian food and big flavours, this is a great book. The flavours are interesting and pack a punch. His bigoli with salsa was rich and had superb mouth feel. His risotto (especially the beet) and braised lamb ribs, which are restaurant favourites, are intriguing.

The recipes seem straightforward and uncomplicated, but without much explanation about cooking methods, timing or ingredient substitutions. You will need to be an experienced, intuitive cook.

THE YOUNG MAN & THE SEA

Recipes & Crispy Fish Tales From Esca

By David Pasternack and Ed Levine, Artisan Books, 253 pages, $43.95

Esca is one of my favourite New York restaurants. You taste the fresh flavours of the sea because of chef David Pasternack's passion for simplicity and natural taste.

A brilliant chef and a fanatic fisherman, he understands the catching and cooking of fish. Pasternack originated the trend for "crudo" - raw, pristine seafood flavoured with light vinaigrettes or lemon juice - a kind of Italian sashimi which is now popular around the Western world. There are several fine crudo recipes in the book.

From bucatini with Rita's spicy baby octopus sauce to slow roasted black cod, his dishes never falter, and neither does the book. Pasternak's warm and sincere personality comes through. His recipes give maximum flavour without being overly complicated, and the book is jammed with tips and anecdotes. This eclectic fish book will be a staple in my kitchen.

DANA'S TOP TEN TABLE

By Dana McCauley, HarperCollins, 228 pages, $28.95

You have to overlook the dull design and cover of this book to realize that it is a good family cookbook with well-tested recipes. The title threw me too, as I did not know what Top Ten Table meant until I read the back cover.

The concept is the 10 most popular meals for the family, chicken, pizza, steak and more, and then 20 variations. The book has lots of tips, tells you about storage, making ahead, freezing - all excellent for a family cook. McCauley is nothing if not practical about family living; even cleanup is kept to the minimum.

With the Food Network showcasing so much homegrown talent, books are a natural adjunct to the shows. This explains the glut of new books featuring a face, not food, on the cover. For Martha Stewart or Rachel Ray, this is may be a sound idea, but although you can't judge a book by its cover, personally I would rather get a feel for the book through the essence of the food presentation, not the author's celebrity status. It feels a bit like the vanity press.

DECONSTRUCTING THE DISH

By David Adjey, Whitecap, 160 pages, $35

Adjey shows how to take the elements of a dish and use them as building blocks to create the final result. This means that all the recipes have three or four components to them. His seasonal dishes are innovative and interesting, often with twists. The layout helps by keeping every step separate. However, this is a restaurant book for the most accomplished cook, because although Adjey gives you the building blocks, you will need an army of sous-chefs to finish the dish.

DISH ENTERTAINS

By Trish Magwood, HarperCollins, 247 pages, $44.95

Magwood's offering presents her as an accomplished mother, style maven, entertainer and cook - all the things we may desire to be. It is cleanly designed and full of Donna Hay-inspired food shots. Familiar tastes will appeal to the less ambitious cook. Ingredient quantities are sometimes uneven: The putty-like (but tasty) maple cream icing suffers from too much icing sugar, while the too-sweet parsnip soup could use a lighter touch with the cider. Magwood's recipes are best when they are simple feed-a-crowd fare, such as the zucchini gratin or the pasta with arugula, mozzarella and roasted tomatoes. Helpful for would-be entertainers.

TANGY TART HOT AND SWEET

A World of Recipes for Every Day

By Padma Lakshmi, Weinstein Books, 265 pages, $40.50

I wanted to love this book. Padma Lakshmi is a beautiful, vivacious woman whose attractiveness spills out all over her TV show Top Chef. Her cookbook is equally beautiful, with great food ideas and bold colours. But there is a problem with the recipes, which are sloppily written and often do not work. You could make adjustments if you were a good cook. Perhaps it was quickly done to follow up on her TV popularity. Enjoy the show.