The cobblestone lane is only a few metres wide, but it is lined with pastry shops, sushi stalls, pasta houses, Thai noodle takeaway stands and cafés. And there are dozens more like it that make up the maze of Melbourne's inner city. It may not have the glitz and glamour of its bigger sister, Sydney, and it isn't famous for its pristine beaches and showy landmarks, but Melbourne more than makes up for it with its café lifestyle, high culture and sports-loving attitude.
On any given day, you'll see young and old sitting outside sipping “flat whites,” Australia's version of a regular coffee, reading the paper and discussing the “footy” scores from the night before.
But first things first: Ditch the map when you're in the inner city, but not the umbrella, because you're likely to experience summer, spring and fall, all in one day.What's coming up
There's no better time to experience Melbourne's love for culture and art then during the Melbourne International Arts Festival (61-3-9662-4242; www.melbournefestival.com.au) from Oct. 12 to 28. The highlight on the arts calendar, the fest is a mix of Australian and international talent representing dance, theatre, opera and the visual arts.
Next month sees the Melbourne Cup, the day that “stops the nation.” It's a public holiday in Melbourne, as well as being one of the most watched and gambled events in Australia. The finale of the Spring Racing Carnival (springracingcarnival.com.au), it's the most important thoroughbred horse race in Australia, and one of the most prestigious two-mile races in the world. Always held on the second Tuesday in November and attracting more than 100,000 people to Flemington Racetrack, it's a chance for locals and visitors alike to dress up in their favourite frock and suit. If you're looking your best, enter the “Fashions on the Field” contest, which doles out awards to the best-dressed male and female fan.
If you're in the mood for some post-Christmas Day sport, attend the highest-profile test match on the international cricket calendar. The Melbourne Boxing Day Test (www.mcc.org.au) will host England this year, as Australia attempts to regain the Ashes trophy in one of the most anticipated matches in years. Over five days, more than 160,000 fans head to the historic Melbourne Cricket Ground.
Diversions
Start your morning in the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere, the Queen Victoria Market (www.qvm.com.au). This bustling bazaar offers almost every type of food available, and is best known for its huge variety of fresh produce. Take a foodie tour where, for two hours, you'll be guided through the meat, fish, diary, fruit and vegetable halls, with samples along the way. Morning is best as you'll see sellers at their busiest, but be sure to book in advance.
Afterward, jump onto the free city circle tram and make your way toward Parliament. The historic Parliament House (Bourke and Spring Streets; www.parliament.vic.gov.au) is one of the most beautiful public buildings in Melbourne. If you're in the mood for politics, head in during a sitting of Parliament in the spring and autumn months. Most are on Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday.
Stroll left down Bourke Street to No. 66 — and head into Pellegrini's. in 1954, this was the first place to get an espresso machine in Melbourne, and since then it has become a local institution. They make a killer gnocchi and some of the best coffee outside Italy.There aren't any prices listed for the coffees, so act like a local and just order without looking lost. Every type of coffee is $2.30 (espresso, cappuccino, latte and “flat white”).
