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California may be beloved for its glorious coastline, but at the heart of the Golden State are its deserts of forbidding beauty. From an abundance of water to a dearth, just a short drive inward from the coast is Joshua Tree National Park. This is a land forged by strong winds, unpredictable rivers of rain and the extremes of weather. Joshua Tree is at the meeting place of two deserts, the lowland Colorado desert and the higher-ground Mojave, where the namesake Joshua tree is found. Mormon settlers saw the odd-shaped succulent's upraised arms as a beacon, leading the way to the Promised Land. Successive waves of settlers, from the Serrano Indians to the cattlemen, the Gold Rush miners and then the homesteaders tried to tame this wild land. Today tourists come for the clear skies, the clean air and the tranquil beauty that provides a space for self-discovery.

A desert is really about its oases, though. The Oasis of Mara is where you will find 29 Palms Inn. A wacky experience, no two cabins are the same: try a 1930s adobe bungalow with a fireplace, say, or a 1920s wood cabin. Better than any grand boutique hotel, this inn fits into the magical environment, an insider secret. The name 29 Palms comes from a legend of the Serrano, who were sent to the oasis by a medicine man who told them it would be a good site to make male babies. For each boy child, the tribe was to plant a palm, and in the first year 29 palms rose in tribute.


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