Harley heaven in Port Dover
The day dawned clear. No excuses. It was time to anoint my new, cherry-red 250cc Honda, with "Rebel" proudly written on the side of each tank.
I'm a 54-year-old mom with a respected position. But newly single, the changes in my life demanded that I challenge myself. I've been hooked on motorcycles since I was 14. What better way than to suit up—black leather jacket with fringes that make me feel fierce and free, chaps, sturdy boots, leather gloves, and a large, round, bobble-headed helmet—and ride off to my Holy Grail: Port Dover, Ontario, where since 1981, motorcycle enthusiasts, at times numbering in tens of thousands, flock each Friday 13th.
But stereotypes loom large fueled by Easy Rider and Born to be Wild. Would the men be misfits? Outlaws? Hard-living, rebellious and tattooed? Would the women hint at unsavoury pasts?
And I'm torn about my route: going slow seems safer; going fast, well, faster. Caution wins out, however, so following the sun from east to west, avoiding major highways in favour of routes with traffic lights. I take it slow...first gear, second gear, brake, stop, first, second...the sun climbs higher. The bonus: lots of practice working the clutch and brake.
Two hours later, in Waterdown, I ask directions. A woman assures me the on-ramp is just ahead. The on-ramp…to a highway? But the urge to reach my destination over-takes fear. I'm soon on Hwy. 403. It's as though I'm on an amusement park ride, but in this case, with my eyes open.
Then a low thundering rises behind me and I'm enveloped by a dozen rumbling bikes. I belong! The moment vanishes, however, as they roar past and my heartbeat returns to normal. Other riders heading in the opposite direction signal their traditional two-fingered greeting. Finally, shakily, I release my grip and return their salute. That sense of belonging sweeps through me again. Later, I'm confident enough to initiate the greeting.
Several kilometres before the town of Port Dover, a large sign proclaims, "Residents with permits and motorcycles only beyond this point." I feel a riff of excitement as the officer waves me through. Me!
I ride to the fringe of town and what's best described as a parade of bikes forms almost unconsciously. But my parading skills still need refinement. I quickly park my bike.
A carnival atmosphere prevails. Aromas of hotdogs, fries, pulled pork and barbeque fills nostrils. It's the quality of a summer seaside town. Early afternoon April light on the beach washes the beachfront buildings with the hue of a by-gone era, something akin to early Alice Munro. I sit on the pier, savouring fries awash with gravy and a feeling of contentment comes over me.
The streets themselves are a sea of black leather accented with orange, the
colours of Harley Davidson, still the overwhelming motorcycle of choice. The
thousands of bikes, parked with regimental precision, live up to their
image—low-slung, menacing, with their trademark throaty rumble. And pride is
readily apparent: gleaming chrome, lovingly polished, fringes and studs
adorn seats and bags.
Before I leave, however, I search for one special purchase: an oblong black patch declaring: 'Port Dover, Friday April 13, 2012.' I'll proudly sew it onto my jacket when I get home—and leave room on my vest for more. Conscious that the sun is dipping, it's time to leave, and I reach home just as the sun drops.
Already, the next Friday 13th, looms. It's July 13th. I'm more than ready. I've already bought a bigger bike: a Yamaha V-Star 650 so that I'll feel more grounded and connected to the road. And maybe this time, I'll be brave enough to join the motorcycle parade through town. Vroom….
No need to wait until the next big ride. Scenic winding roads linking Port Dover, Port Rowan, Port Stanley and Port Burwell, make the north shore of Lake Erie a great spot for
motorcycling—or driving—all summer long. Whether you take the ferry to Pelee Island or hit the Lake Huron Beach at Grand Bend, the region's coastline proves endlessly alluring. Watch gulls trailing the fishing tugs into a harbour, dine on a beach overlooking the lake and relax with a view of the watery horizon.
No need to wait until the next big ride. Scenic winding roads linking Port Dover, Port Rowan, Port Stanley and Port Burwell, make the north shore of Lake Erie a great spot for
motorcycling—or driving—all summer long. Whether you take the ferry to Pelee Island or hit the Lake Huron Beach at Grand Bend, the region's coastline proves endlessly alluring. Watch gulls trailing the fishing tugs into a harbour, dine on a beach overlooking the lake and relax with a view of the watery horizon.
ontariossouthwest.com/motorcycling
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