The Globe and Mail

BACKGROUND. Art of Reuse is a collective of taste makers, merchandisers and designers who spend months and months building pop-up, or ‘Interim,’ thrift shops across Canada and the United States. Their mission is to “re-invent thrift shopping and the connotation it comes with.”

THE SELECTION PROCESS. Sarah Vonditsianou is curating the group's fourth pop-up store in Toronto. It's the group's first women-only collection. Along with her colleagues Sean Brown and Courtney Eastman, she walks me through the near-technical process of thrifting in Value Village on Rogers Road one afternoon in December.

TIME SPENT. In the six months leading up to Feb. 19, the group spends four to five days a week, fanning to three to four shops a day, scouring each one for roughly an hour at a time. That’s roughly 480 hours of picking (and ultimately ditching) piles of clothes and accessories leading up to the main event.

A QUICK LESSON IN THRIFT. When it comes to selecting men’s ties, for example, Courtney, who's in charge of inventory, checks the labels to ensure they’re either silk or wool. “[The ties have] got to have history,” he says, “and they’ve got to be reasonably priced." For example, he says, as he points to a price tag, “$4.99 to us is expensive.” He advises checking the Salvation Army for lower prices. “Certain stores are good for certain items.”

EDIT EDIT EDIT. The trio piles clothes and accessories into their shopping carts but by the end of the trip, after trying garments on and intense debate, they’ve whittled their spoils down to a few items. They usually ditch about 60 per cent of the stuff they gather. Not surprisingly, a large portion of the changing room debate centres on which items they find that they can keep for themselves, rather than use for the shop. A fight over black leather biker boots that fit Sarah “perfectly” lasts for more than 10 minutes.

FOR THE THRIFT SKEPTICS. What distinguishes Interim from the other taste makers trying to make their mark? Why not just go to a thrift store? Sean breaks this down into two categories: curation (paying for taste level and the novelty of the item), and their incredible access to rag houses and connections across the city.

HIP FACTOR. Has the popularity of thrift affected the quality of the pickings, I wonder? When the group goes on the hunt, is the stuff generally picked over? Or, put another way, do people know better than to donate their vintage Valentino jacket or Yves St. Laurent blouse? “Not really,” explains Courtney. “It's like the stock market; there are fluctuations, ups and downs.”

PROMOTION. The group relies on word of mouth to promote coming events. At their first shop in April, held at salvage furniture shop/gallery Smash in the Junction, the shop sold out in 15 minutes. “We didn't anticipate that,” admits Courtney. They also go hard with social media, blogs, podcasts and mixed tapes, and also include a full-on print campaign where model and photographer friends volunteer their time to help out.

WHY PRINT? Social media is still huge for the group, but they haven't abandoned print altogether. Armed with 20 posters and dozens of small flyers, Sean and Courtney canvas Queen Street telephone polls. “You can't always depend on something going viral,” says Courtney. It may take more time and effort, but people appreciate the tangible, natural feel of print programming.

MINOR DETOUR. Like any well-laid-out plan, there are bound to be obstacles along the way, including a forgotten staple gun. They shell out $26.25 for one at the local hardware store, Q&B Hardware on Queen Street. Small expenses such as these can add up, but the duo doesn't seem bothered. “It's better than having to drive home and get another one,” says Sean.

OTHER ART OF REUSE MEMBERS. Bernard Manarin is a taste maker who's been with the group for two years. He helps pull clothes and brings a different network to the table. The other two are Othello Gray, co-founder and media man, and Graham Robertson, who works on the website.

FINANCING. Trinkets, tables, racks, rugs and other props, not to mention the actual retail goods, are paid for out of pocket. And with nothing for sale at the shop above $50, Sean admits they usually run at a loss, or break even at best. They all have full-time retail and freelance jobs, but thrifting is their real love. “We're more passion-based than profit-based,” Sean says.

MOTIVATION. “It's never been about generating cash quickly, but raising awareness about thrifting and teaching people about sustainability,” says Courtney.

THE BIG DAY. A crisp and sunny Sunday afternoon, well-dressed scenesters line up outside of King Street’s Light and Hevvy photography studio, hoping to be one of the first to score something at Interim's women's shop.

THE VENUE. Partnerships with venues are usually very casual, explains Courtney. If it's at a coffee shop, such as the Mascot in Parkdale, where they held their second pop-up, there's no monetary transaction because they're attracting customers to the shop. Other times, they will shell out for the space.

THE FANS. Javier Castaneda, a literature student at York University, stumbled upon Art of Reuse after doing a Google search on thrifting. He attended the second and third men's pop-up and when he found out the fourth was women's, he thought he'd bring his deal-hunting sister Andrea along. “My parents think shopping thrift isn't in ... but it doesn't have to be dirty clothes or stuff no one wants,” he says.

THE FRIENDS. Stephen Nano, left, and Artemio Espinoza work at American Apparel and came down to check out the shop. Artemio is a member of the Interim group and though he couldn't help with the women's shop, he intends to join them for coming summer show in San Francisco. “They're the most humble dudes I've met in my life ... they build this store for everyone, not for certain people ... it's an art ... it's the art of reuse,” he says.

MEANWHILE. The studio crawls with bloggers, freelance writers and photogs angling for the perfect shot of the eclectic, yet harmonic, goods on display. There's even a small film crew working on a pilot episode on Art of Reuse. It hopes to pitch the show to TLC, HGTV or one of the other reality-TV networks.

THE MOOD. A nervous energy fills the air as volunteers, such as actors and crew scurrying for curtain call, sort out last-minute details like steaming garments, answering calls and giving the floor a good sweep.

SWEET IDEA. Feminine touches, such as a sweets table with dipped chocolate pretzels, glass jars of gumdrops and jujubes, tiers of cupcakes, and coconut dipped marshmallow puffs help lighten the mood.

SARAH ON THE COLLECTION. “It's really girly,” says a styled Sarah perched on three-inch heels and decked out in an edgy party dress, “but you can mix it up. I just love mixing patterns and polka dots and florals.” She's nervous and excited. She flutters around the space, adjusting mannequin arms and rearranging the space between the hanging silk shirts.

AN EDUCATION. But just like that, Sarah regains her confidence, as if reminded suddenly of the shop's loftier mission. “There's stuff you can find here under $50 and it's real wood, fur and silk.” They want to show that amazing, one-of-a-kind pieces are out there, she explains, and you don't have to pay Top Shop, H&M, or American Apparel prices for them.

SEAN'S TAKE. He's thrilled with the women's collection Sarah put together, admitting it opened them up to new options in pattern and colour. “Normally we'd buy a man's shirt and just look for a smaller size,” but he soon realized there was more to women's wear than that.

THE BIG REVEAL. After months and months of planning and hard work, the time has finally arrived. Like a fashion show, or concert, there's a group-huddle before the patrons are let in, thank yous are doled out. Courtney moves to the door, and lets the first five (out of a line of dozens and dozens) get a taste of the shop.

A HAPPY ENDING. To Sarah's relief, the show is a success. It doesn't take long before 90 per cent of the dresses are pulled off the rack, shoes are tried on and snapped up, and shelves of floral-patterned bags and bangles are emptied.