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Posted on 16/08/04

A hearty toast to the queen of cooking

Her television debut in 1962 was one of the most liberating in the history of a usually tame medium. Julia Child was 50 years old and an uninhibited 6-foot-2, trilled commands in a headmistressy warble that sounded like Kate Hepburn after a pint of gin, played the kitchen like an ambidextrous tympanist and didn't care how she looked or sounded as long as her ungainly, unbounded joy caught on.

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