Pick of the week
Castello di Neive Barbaresco 2002
($21.95, No. 674044) shows a light to medium body and classic notes of tar, roses and cherry.
Let's be clear: Wine is not an acceptable Valentine's Day gift unless accompanied by dinner, flowers, chocolates, lingerie or airline tickets. A bottle by itself would thrill only a wine bore, and if you're involved with one of those, don't expect a night of romance.
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That said, a special bottle in the right circumstances can score additional points. The cardinal rule, I think, is to present it without much fanfare. Remember, when trying to make an impression with wine, let the wine do the talking.
That means buying something out of the ordinary. Not necessarily expensive, just interesting and uncommon. In other words, your favourite bargain shiraz, the one you've been hoarding for tomorrow's Super Bowl party, won't do.
And because we're talking romance here, let me offer another helpful hint: Think Europe. Much as we like to believe North Americans invented everything, we didn't. Especially not sex. That was invented in southwestern Europe a long time ago. They don't call French, Italian and Spanish romance languages for nothing. European wines, by reflex, are sexier.
What to buy? The LCBO in Ontario, ever eager to milk a Hallmark holiday for a booze tie-in, has come up with a Valentine's conceit for today's release of premium wines and spirits. They've dubbed the release "Mediterranean romance." And while it may seem a tad concocted, given that Mediterranean wines figure prominently in just about every monthly Vintages releases, they've hit on the right idea, and you'll find some ideal and well-priced offerings in the bunch.
Some selections even feature romantically inspired names, such as L'attrape Coeur (roughly, "heart catcher" in French) and Torres San Valentin, a pair of red and white Spanish wines that come with heart-shaped labels.
My advice is to skip the kitsch and head straight for a few of the best values in the release, one of which happens to be a very spicy, seductive red from southern France. Domaines des Aires Hautes Les Combelles 2003 ($10.95, product No. 701706) hails from the Minervois appellation and is a classic local blend of syrah, carignan, grenache and cinsault. Savoury and full-bodied, it's the kind of rustic red that will transport you back to that first meal you had in a French bistro, teeming with notes of plum, blueberry, leather and spice and ready for steak frites or cassoulet. The come-hither price will leave all that much more change left over to spend on flowers and chocolates.
Another good red value from southern France is La Baume Selection Shiraz Cabernet 2001 ($15.95, No. 730523). It's full-bodied and muscular, with hints of plum, black currant and blueberry and a long, spicy finish.
Looking for an affordable, elegant bubbly at a fetching price? Consider Guinot Brut Cuvée Réserve Blanquette de Limoux ($14.95, No. 664656). This bone-dry white is made in a region of southern France that was producing sparkling wines at least a century before a Benedictine monk named Dom Pierre Pérignon was credited with inventing the method by which champagne is made. It's light, fresh and floral, with hints of apple, apricot and citrus.
Another fine red offering from southern France is Château Fortia Cuvée de Baron Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003 ($38.95, No. 959999). Medium full-bodied and brimming with nuances of cherry, plum, leather and herbs, it finishes with spice and chewy tannins. It's a good candidate for five years of cellaring.
The standout value from Italy is Torri Costa Bicocchi Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2001 ($14.95, No. 744243). Medium-bodied, it's showing notes of plum, tobacco and leather, with plenty of old-wood and astringent tannins for rustic charm. This is Chianti for steak or pasta Bolognese.
If you want a sublime red-wine partner for chocolate, check out Picchierri Tradizione del Nonno Primitivo di Manduria 2003 ($28.95, No. 718130). Primitivo is the grape Californians call zinfandel, and this one shows many of the best characters of the jammy California style, rich and luscious, with hints of raisin and cherry and brisk, invigorating acidity.
For primitivo lovers on a budget, there's the decidedly more earthy Lirica Primitivo di Manduria 2003 ($13.95, No. 669580), full-bodied, rich and chewy, with nuances of plum, blackberry, mushroom and leather.
Also from Italy comes a surprising value called Castello di Neive Barbaresco 2002 ($21.95, No. 674044). No, that's not a typo in the price. Barbarescos, made from the nebbiolo grape in the northern Piedmont region, tend to start around $40. This one does a great job of delivering much of the flavour you'd expect from a $40 offering, showing a light to medium body and classic notes of tar, roses and cherry, with firm acidity and tight tannins. If you're fond of fat shirazes, this isn't for you. But if you want a partner for antipastos or braised meats, this is a bargain.
And don't miss two very good offerings from Niagara. Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut ($29.95, No. 616458) is a dry, coppery-pink bubbly made in the champagne style, showing light to medium body, hints of strawberry, red apple, minerals and fresh bread, with a fine, invigorating mousse.
The same winery shows a deft touch with Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir 2003 ($19.95, No. 268391). It's hard to produce good pinot noir in any region at any price, so I was especially impressed with winemaker Ron Giesbrecht's effort here, delivering a medium-bodied charmer with classic pinot hints of beetroot, cinnamon and berries in a balanced package. It's not from sexy Europe, but it does a pretty good imitation of a decent red Burgundy.
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