Sokolski
The history Built in 1834, this former monastery has been a convent since 1959. In 1876, it was the rallying point for local rebels in the April Uprising, which ultimately led to Bulgaria's independence from the Ottoman Empire. It's now home to three nuns, one busybody housekeeper called Auntie Margarita and her son, Nicolai.
The neighbourhood Set in the middle of the Balkan Mountains at about 2,000 metres above sea level, Sokolski has gorgeous views and is 15 kilometres from Gabrovo (population 73,000), the humour capital of Bulgaria, with its own version of the Just for Laughs festival and museum.
The accommodations They're renovating, so ask for one of the new rooms with mini-fridges, TVs and full-service bathrooms.
The main attractions There's an open-air museum down the hill, but it's really all about the view, framed in the mornings by an Arthurian mist. Oh, there's also an icon of Jesus and Mary in the church that is believed to work miracles.
The details $16 a night per person. The door is bolted with a three-metre pole at 10 p.m., but you can call Nicolai on his cellphone (0886-308-017) to let you in if you get back late. For reservations, call 0668-
017-63.
Dryanovo
The history There has been a monastery on or near this site since the 14th century, when nearby Veliko Tarnovo was the Bulgarian capital. This one dates from the late 17th century and was restored in the 1840s.
The neighbourhood The setting is sublime, surrounded by the soaring limestone Dryanovo Gorge. Veliko Tarnovo, the most picturesque of Bulgarian cities, is a short drive away.
The accommodations Many of the rooms are built directly on the Dryanovo River, and though there's a range of old and new, some of the beds are, shall we say, very monastic. There's also a restaurant that's good enough to attract people from neighbouring towns and villages. Try the ribena chorba (fish soup).
The main attractions Climb about 300 metres to see Bacho Kiro cave, a 3,600-metre labyrinth. About 45 minutes farther is the Rock of the Maidens. The story goes that when the Ottomans came in the 15th century, seven girls, rather than convert, climbed this path, tied their hair together and jumped to their deaths.
The details New rooms are $14, with older rooms with as many as seven beds going for $6.50 to $9.75 a person. Call Father Onufri at 0896-687-406.
Rila
The history Founded in the 10th century by St. John of Rila, Rila Monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the country's biggest tourist attractions. The buildings date from the 1334 stone tower to the 19th-century residences.
The neighbourhood Rila is tucked away 1,147 metres up the Rila Mountains, 117 kilometres from the capital, Sofia. The rivers are filled with trout, and the mountains crisscrossed with trails.
The accommodations There are older rooms, with communal bathrooms and very basic beds, and newer ones with private baths and updated furniture. River and mountain views are the norm, but unfortunately there's no restaurant.
The main attractions The main church and the onsite museum house Orthodox icons from the 14th to 19th centuries, as well as Raphael's Cross, carved from a single piece of wood by a Rila monk named Raphael who worked on its 104 religious scenes and 650 small figures from 1790 to 1802. Legend has it he went blind upon finishing it.
The details This one's busy, so you'll want to call well in advance - 359-7054-2208. Rooms range from $15 to $25 a person.
Kapinovo
The history One of the country's largest, this monastery was originally built in 1272, mostly destroyed by the Ottomans, then rebuilt in the late 17th century, when it became a fortress in which the monks resisted further Turkish attacks. It was from here that the father superior secretly distributed handmade copies of Slavonic-Bulgarian History, the book that started the Bulgarian National Revival of architecture, literature and
nationalism.
The neighbourhood Near the Veselina River and just outside the resort town of Elena, where a dam has created a reservoir suitable for all sorts of water sports. It's also just 18 kilometres from Veliko Tarnovo.
The accommodations The rooms are basic and the bathrooms shared.
The main attraction The "Doomsday" fresco, painted in 1840, that completely covers the front of the church.
The details Rooms are $5.50 a night. The staff says the place is never full, but in case it is - there's no phone, so no way to call ahead to check - Dryanovo is less than half an hour away.
Bachkovo
The history This is the second-largest monastery in the country, after Rila, and was founded in 1083, with a bone vault surviving from that era. The main church was built in 1604.
The neighbourhood Bachkovo is a big tourist attraction, so much has sprouted up around it, including pubs, eateries and souvenir stands. Set in the Rhodope mountain range, though, it's easy to get away from all that, especially if you stay the night and take an evening hike along the herb-scented trails.
The accommodations There are more than 200 rooms here, all on the high end of the Bulgarian monastery spectrum, but it's wise to book ahead.
The main attraction It's the art, especially the icon of the Virgin in the church; it's easy to spot at the end of the long line of pilgrims who come to pray for miracles.
The details Rooms from $20 to $30 a person. Call 359-03327-277.
Kilifarevo
The history First built in 1348, this was, like most Bulgarian monasteries, destroyed by the Turks - in fact, several times. Its current incarnation has been around since 1840. In its heyday, it was known as the "second university of medieval Bulgaria" for its collection of writers, translators, philologists, engineers, theologians and philosophers.
The neighbourhood It's five kilometres from the village of Kilifarevo (population 1,900).
Accommodations There's room for 80, with 25 newly renovated rooms with private bathrooms. The older rooms, only slightly cheaper, share common facilities.
The main attractions Though there are plenty of pretty walks, you might just want to stay put. The courtyard, while not extravagant, is the very definition of charm, with old-growth grape vines planted by Kolyo Fitcheto, the monastery's architect, in 1842. With second-storey loggias set up with tables just outside the rooms, sitting with some rakia (Bulgarian brandy - the gruff-looking but sweet handyman, Ivan, might share some of his) and looking out over the gorgeous grounds is a day well spent.
The details Older rooms are just $4.75, newer ones are $6.50. Call 359-6114-2480.
