Here's an enjoyable round trip of about 700 kilometres from Toronto that will let you follow in the footsteps of the United Empire Loyalists as you travel the shoreline of Lake Ontario to the famous Thousand Islands.
Make a fast start on the 401 to Exit 522 (Wooler Road) between Brighton and Trenton. Or feel free to travel instead on Highway 2 through the towns of Port Hope and Cobourg. There are plenty of signs pointing to the Loyalist Parkway, which you will follow for about 90 km from this point to Kingston.
After the American Revolution of 1776, those who had supported Britain were persecuted and had their property, and often their lives, taken by Americans of the new Republic. Survivors fled to areas of British protection in western Quebec and eastern Ontario. The settlers suffered but persevered to help form Ontario and ultimately Canada. The Loyalist Parkway is their memorial.
Quinte's Isle is also known as Prince Edward County. You will be joining it across the only land link from the mainland (there are also two bridges) and you will be leaving it eventually on a ferry. The county borders the Bay of Quinte on the north and Lake Ontario on the south with about 800 km of ever-changing coastline in total.
Boldt Castle was built by George C. Boldt, then the proprietor of the famous Waldorf Astoria hotel in New York City. (AP)
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It has recently been discovered to be a promising wine-producing region and that has brought with it the forces of gentrification, with vineyards, wineries and thoroughbred horses; the "mink and manure" crowd is gaining a foothold.
But you are here to enjoy the unspoiled countryside and great swimming. At Sandbanks Provincial Park on the shore of Lake Ontario, you will explore the huge sand dunes and golden beaches of the largest freshwater sandbar in the world. There is no shortage of high-quality inns and B&B's in the county; plan on spending your first night here.
Get back on the Loyalist Parkway, also known as Highway 33, which will take you through Picton on your way east to Glenora. A ferry has crossed the Adolphus Reach at Glenora since the beginning of settlements by the United Empire Loyalists; yours is a free car ferry operated by the province.
You'll arrive after a 10-minute trip at Adolphustown to travel a quiet 40-km stretch of road that clings to the water's edge as it passes 18th- and 19th-century homesteads.
As you reach Kingston, the lake is narrowing to become the source of the St. Lawrence River, one of the great rivers of the world, stretching for more than 1,200 kilometres as it drains the world's largest fresh water source, the Great Lakes.
As you get into Kingston, look for Sir John A. Macdonald Blvd. Take it south to the end, which is King Street. Turn left (east) on King. You'll be staring at Kingston Penitentiary and driving along the lake past Queen's University, through the historic neighbourhood of Sydenham Ward, past St. George's Cathedral and Kingston City Hall.
The Thousand Islands extends from Wolfe Island, which you will see across the harbour from Kingston, to the narrows at Brockville. Don't visit Wolfe Island yet; you will cross it from the other side on your way home.
Continuing on, you will cross the causeway across the Cataraqui River on up the hill to Fort Henry. A walk around Fort Henry provides spectacular views of Kingston to the right and the Thousand Islands to the left.
The St. Lawrence was discovered by Jacques Cartier in 1535. The early explorers used the river as a highway to the interior of the continent.
The Thousand Islands actually number 1,865. Some are just a few rocks sticking out of the water, while others are very large, like Wolfe Island, which is about 40 km long by about 14 km wide.
The islands were formed almost 12,000 years ago at the end of the last ice age and they form a connecting bridge between the Canadian Shield to the north and the Adirondack mountains to the south in New York State. Geologically speaking, the connection is the Frontenac Arch, which is the narrow granite spur that bisects the region and provides the rugged character of the Thousand Islands. The narrow channel here provides a corridor for wildlife movement.
The boundary agreement in 1793 between the U.S. and Canada decided that no island would be split in two and that the boundary should be 100 yards from any shore. If that was not possible, the line would run right down the middle between the two shores. This explains why the U.S.-Canada boundary follows a zigzag line. Two thirds of the Islands are in Canadian territory, but the total acreage of the Canadian and American Islands is roughly equal.
It's a nice drive down the Thousand Islands Parkway. When you leave Kingston, just keep to Highway 2; don't go back up to the 401.
You will pass through Gananoque and join the parkway heading toward Rockport, which is a good place for a stop and perhaps a boat cruise through the choicest part of the islands. You can continue as you please to Brockville or turn back to the 1000 Islands Bridge, which is actually a series of bridges from island to island that was built in 1938. Over a distance of nearly 14 km, it takes you to New York State.
Did I mention that you should bring your passport or other official identification to allow your brief visit to the United States?
Clayton, N.Y., which sits on a peninsula surrounded by the St. Lawrence, is my favourite town on the American side. It was at its peak a century ago when the Thousand Islands were the playground of the rich. As many as 30 trains a day arrived from New York City to bring the summer visitors.
During this period, many opulent homes and mansions were built in the area. The most famous was Boldt Castle, built by George C. Boldt, the owner of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel. Clayton is the home of the world-famous Antique Boat Museum, the world's largest fresh water yacht and race boat museum. It is superb; if you love mahogany, don't miss it.
Carry on eastward on your way to Cape Vincent, N.Y. Here you will find a privately operated 12-car ferry that will take you across to the southern shore of Wolfe Island and back to Canada.
Wolfe Island is a beautiful area of farms and riverside views. Say hello to Don Cherry if you see him on his way to his cottage there. On the north side of the island is the Ontario government's free ferry, the Wolfe Islander III. It carries 55 cars per 20-minute trip to downtown Kingston. From there, head back home by the route of your choice.
