MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA — The cobblestone lane is only a few metres wide, but it is lined with pastry shops, sushi stalls, pasta houses, Thai noodle takeaway stands and cafés. And there are dozens more like it that make up the maze of Melbourne's inner city. It may not have the glitz and glamour of its bigger sister, Sydney, and it isn't famous for its pristine beaches and showy landmarks, but Melbourne more than makes up for it with its café lifestyle, high culture and sports-loving attitude.
On any given day, you'll see young and old sitting outside sipping “flat whites,” Australia's version of a regular coffee, reading the paper and discussing the “footy” scores from the night before.
But first things first: Ditch the map when you're in the inner city, but not the umbrella, because you're likely to experience summer, spring and fall, all in one day. What's coming up
There's no better time to experience Melbourne's love for culture and art then during the Melbourne International Arts Festival (61-3-9662-4242; www.melbournefestival.com.au) from Oct. 12 to 28. The highlight on the arts calendar, the fest is a mix of Australian and international talent representing dance, theatre, opera and the visual arts.
Next month sees the Melbourne Cup, the day that “stops the nation.” It's a public holiday in Melbourne, as well as being one of the most watched and gambled events in Australia. The finale of the Spring Racing Carnival (springracingcarnival.com.au), it's the most important thoroughbred horse race in Australia, and one of the most prestigious two-mile races in the world. Always held on the second Tuesday in November and attracting more than 100,000 people to Flemington Racetrack, it's a chance for locals and visitors alike to dress up in their favourite frock and suit. If you're looking your best, enter the “Fashions on the Field” contest, which doles out awards to the best-dressed male and female fan.
If you're in the mood for some post-Christmas Day sport, attend the highest-profile test match on the international cricket calendar. The Melbourne Boxing Day Test (www.mcc.org.au) will host England this year, as Australia attempts to regain the Ashes trophy in one of the most anticipated matches in years. Over five days, more than 160,000 fans head to the historic Melbourne Cricket Ground.
Diversions
Start your morning in the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere, the Queen Victoria Market (www.qvm.com.au). This bustling bazaar offers almost every type of food available, and is best known for its huge variety of fresh produce. Take a foodie tour where, for two hours, you'll be guided through the meat, fish, diary, fruit and vegetable halls, with samples along the way. Morning is best as you'll see sellers at their busiest, but be sure to book in advance.
Afterward, jump onto the free city circle tram and make your way toward Parliament. The historic Parliament House (Bourke and Spring Streets; www.parliament.vic.gov.au) is one of the most beautiful public buildings in Melbourne. If you're in the mood for politics, head in during a sitting of Parliament in the spring and autumn months. Most are on Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday.
Stroll left down Bourke Street to No. 66 — and head into Pellegrini's. in 1954, this was the first place to get an espresso machine in Melbourne, and since then it has become a local institution. They make a killer gnocchi and some of the best coffee outside Italy.There aren't any prices listed for the coffees, so act like a local and just order without looking lost. Every type of coffee is $2.30 (espresso, cappuccino, latte and “flat white”).
Wander along Swanston Street, Melbourne's civic spine, until you reach the majestic and somewhat unusual-looking Federation Square (federationsquare.com). It's the public heart of Melbourne, as well as housing several galleries and museums. Check out the Australian Centre for Moving Image (www.acmi.net.au) at Federation Square, the world's first museum dedicated to the moving image. This place has the world's largest screen gallery, plus, this month for the celebration of television turning 50 in Australia, it's also home to the world's largest wall of TVs side by side.
Cross the Yarra River over the Princes Bridge, and make your way to the National Gallery of Victoria (www.ngv.vic.gov.au). The NGV is the oldest public art museum in Australia and constantly houses some of the most acclaimed collections. Until the end of the month, you can see Picasso: Love and War, direct from Musée Picasso in Paris. Entry to the permanent collection is free.
Next door is the Arts Centre (www.theartscentre.net.au), which houses the symphony, ballet and opera. If you don't catch a performance, return at night to watch the 163-metre-high steel spire light up with neon lights and sparkling flashes. Very Eiffel Tower-esque.
Where to stay
The Langham Hotel (www.melbourne.langhamhotels.com; 1 Southgate Ave., 61-3-8696-8888) boasts some of the best views of Melbourne. The Langham offers elegance, including multitiered marble fountains, its famous Chakra Spa and butler service. Rates start at $227.
A 10-minute tram ride from the centre of town, the 1880s Victorian terrace house, Fountain Terrace (www.fountainterrace.com.au; 28 Mary St.; 61-3-9593-8123) is located on a tree-lined street with a beach at the end of it and is a short stroll to dozens of cafés and restaurants. There are seven rooms, all equipped with private en suite bathrooms.
Where to eat and drink
MoVida (www.movida.com.au; 1 Hosier Lane) is located down a narrow graffiti-covered laneway.An inviting, warm space with a touch of Spain, it offers equally inviting diners and delicious tapas. Try the Piemiento de Piquillo, sweet hickory smoked peppers filled with swimmer crab and potato confit.
For dinner, head to little Italy, where Bottega (bottega.com.au; 74 Bourke St.; 61-3-9654-2252), shows diners a touch of Melbourne class. Offering simple, but wonderful Italian food and great service. Start with the seared tuna salad, which seems to melt in your mouth. The grilled aged scotch fillet with Jerusalem artichokes and horseradish parsley salad was cooked to perfection.
After dark
If you want to go where the locals go, you need to visit the Melbourne Supper Club (Level 1, 161 Spring St.). It's easy to miss, but worth the effort. Old-world charm is everywhere at this place, with its deep couches and candlelit nooks. It also has one of the most extensive drinks lists I've ever seen, with more than 400 items on the menu, not to mention an extensive assortment of Cuban cigars.
If you're in the mood for some of the best jazz in the Southern Hemisphere, then head to another local hangout that is almost impossible to find. Bennetts Lane Jazz Club (www.bennettslane.com; 25 Bennetts Lane) offers live jazz seven days a week. This isn't one of those seen-to-be-seen places, but instead is a local hangout that brings with it a cool, casual atmosphere with great music.
Special to The Globe and Mail
