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Most cuisines adapt and modernize with time and place. Indian cuisine is no different. The Indian diaspora is huge, and Indians all over the world modify their recipes according to where they live.
Punjabis living outside of India have learned to cook differently than Punjabis living in India. Take tandoor. In northern India, the traditional cylindrical clay oven is fuelled by charcoal and wood chips. But in North America we use gas-powered tandoors.
The same goes for the Gujaratis and South Indians, who invent new cooking variations and spice combinations every day.
Using whatever produce is available in local markets and the wide range of Indian spices, there are any number of permutations and combinations for creating new dishes.
A light tomato-cream curry sauce is seasoned and simmered before adding sturgeon and mussels. (Laura Leyshon for The Globe and Mail)
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A new wave of Indian Chinese is emerging in Mumbai and Delhi - a good example of different ethnic groups combining flavours.
The most important factor remains, however, that a dish should not hide behind chili or oil or any one spice. There is really no substitute for taking the time to sauté the onions and garlic and roast the spices to enhance the flavours.
Adapting to new produce or using a different technique is part of a cuisine's evolution. Those that do not change with the times tend to remain very simple.
The following recipe takes two local ingredients commonly used here - sturgeon and mussels - and cooks them in a curry seasoned with the spices of India.
There is much you can learn about cooking from watching your grandparents or moms and dads - but then give dishes your own twist and create a new style.
STURGEON, MUSSELS AND BABY CARROTS IN TOMATO AND LIGHT CREAM CURRY
What you need
2½ cups tomato broth
4 cups water
1 ounce ginger, in thin slivers
1 ounce garlic, in thin slivers
1 small jalapeno pepper
1 tablespoon black mustard seeds
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon paprika
1½-inch stick cinnamon
½ to ¾ cup whipping cream
30 mussels
1 bunch small carrots (minimum of six) washed, scrubbed and greens removed
1½ pounds sturgeon, in 5-centimetre by 8-centimetre pieces (3 to 4 ounces per serving)
What you do
Combine tomato broth, water, ginger, garlic, jalapeno pepper, mustard seeds, salt, turmeric, paprika and cinnamon in a large pot and stir well.
Place on medium heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, but not to a simmer. Cook curry, uncovered, for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. As it cooks, the smell of the cinnamon should become stronger.
Turn off the heat and allow the curry to cool slightly, about 10 minutes.
Turn the heat to medium and add 1/2 cup whipping cream. Taste a teaspoonful of the curry. If it seems too tart, add another 1/4 cup whipping cream. This isn't meant to be a rich curry. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Wash mussels thoroughly and, with a paring knife, scrape off any grit and grime on the shells. Chop carrots in half or thirds.
Return curry to a boil on medium heat, then reduce heat to medium-low and add sturgeon. Stir gently and cook for one minute. Add mussels and carrots. Stir gently, cover and cook for four minutes. Immediately remove the lid and turn off the heat. The mussel shells should be open and the sturgeon should be firm and white.
Using a large ladle, divide equal portions of sturgeon, mussels, carrots and curry among six large shallow bowls.
Serves 6.
Vikram Vij is chef and owner of Vij's restaurant in Vancouver.
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A prehistoric fish
Sturgeon is best known as the fish that has existed since the time of the dinosaurs.
According to marine environmentalists, wild sturgeon is nearly extinct. The one exception is white sturgeon from the Columbia River in Oregon. Farmed sturgeon, however, is extremely sustainable as a fishery, and we find the quality excellent.
If you can't find sturgeon, use halibut or any other firm, white fish.
Many supermarkets sell washed and cleaned mussels. If you buy them from a seafood or farmers' market, fresh mussels may need to be cleaned. Make sure to buy only those with closed shells.
Vikram Vij
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Beppi's wine matches
Consider a floral, lushly fruited gewurztraminer for this dish, such as Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer Carte d'Or from France (about $16) or Quails' Gate Gewurztraminer from British Columbia ($17). Other good choices include the subtly off-dry Hugel Gentil, also from France ($15), and Flat Rock Twisted from Ontario ($15), a tasty, off-dry white blended from gewurztraminer, riesling and chardonnay.
Beppi Crosariol
