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Like most chefs, I always anticipate the specialties of each new season, which usually arrive with a very brief window of availability.
That window is a big part of the appeal in this age of the global supermarket where everything is available year-round, quality be damned!
The delicacy I look forward to the most in late August and early September comes from the East, where it grows wild in the woods of Cape Breton Island: the Golden Chanterelle mushroom.
We have already been cooking with very good chanterelles from our West Coast.
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However, I have to agree with Roy MacLean (of Toronto's R.D. Fine Foods, Scaramouche's principal wild mushroom supplier), who has been preaching to me for years that the best chanterelles come from Cape Breton. Is it coincidence he hails from the same place?
Roy's persuasive sermonizing aside, the mushrooms are fantastic. The weather is always a large factor in the quality of any wild food, and when conditions have been perfect on the Cape, the mushrooms are small, firm and dry, with a golden yellow hue and aromas of apricot, nut and earth.
The colour may vary but characteristics should be similar to those above. Avoid mushrooms that are wet, discoloured or smell unpleasant.
Once you have them home, resist the urge to wash them. It is better to pick over them carefully, removing any specks of dirt, moss or pine needles with a small knife. If they contain insect larvae, dip the mushrooms in salted water before cooking and drain well.
I can't think of a recipe that calls for mushrooms that wouldn't be improved with the addition of fresh, fragrant chanterelles, but the best way to highlight them is to use them as the main attraction in simple dishes.
One of the finest ways to start a weekend is with a breakfast of chanterelle scrambled eggs with double-smoked bacon and a great big Mimosa - without the orange juice.
Chanterelle Scrambled Eggs
WHAT YOU NEED
8 fresh large eggs
8 ounces fresh chanterelles, cleaned and sliced lengthwise
2 ounces double-smoked bacon, diced
½ tablespoon vegetable oil
2 ounces sweet butter, diced and chilled
2 tablespoons cold 35-per-cent cream
2 tablespoons finely cut chives
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
WHAT YOU DO
Heat a medium-sized heavy pan over moderate heat.
Add oil and bacon, cook until fragrant and gently sizzling.
Increase the heat, add half the butter and allow to foam; throw in the mushrooms, leave to cook without stirring for a couple of moments, then toss. The mushrooms will give up some liquid depending on their water content. Allow this to completely evaporate, and let them take on a little colour.
Season with salt and pepper.
As soon as they're tender, tip them into a colander set over a bowl to keep them warm.
Break the eggs into a bowl and whisk them vigorously with a fork until the yolks and whites are just blended.
Place a pan over moderate heat and smear the base and sides with some of the oil from the bacon and mushrooms.
Pour in the eggs, lower the heat, and using a heatproof rubber spatula stir the eggs from the bottom of the pan slowly but constantly.
As soon as you feel the eggs thickening, remove from heat and continue stirring.
Return the eggs to the heat and repeat the process; the idea is to cook the eggs slowly so that they don't become dry and rubbery, but soft and silky.
When the eggs are almost done (better under than over), remove from heat and gently stir in the cream and remaining butter, then the bacon and mushrooms.
Serve on thickly cut warm toast sprinkled with chives.
Serves 4 to 6.
Keith Froggett is executive chef and co-owner of Scaramouche.
