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With the first official holiday of the cold season out of the way, it's time to think about what will be on the menu for the next while.
There has been a shift recently - not only in the weather but in the variety and quality of products in the markets.
At Mistura, we're incorporating more roasted squash, root vegetables, dry beans and grains into our lineup. For the most part, asparagus and fresh berries are gone, and pears, apples, persimmons, chestnuts and squash are in.
I always try to eat local and in season - just as I do with tomatoes. Winter, however, is long and it's tough to eat root vegetables all the time, so on occasion I go for the long-haul stuff.
Treat your palate to the full-bodied flavours of squash flan with sauteed mushrooms. You can use squash in soups, desserts and even to make chips. (Tibor Kolley/The Globe and Mail)
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Summer is easy even for a not-so-passionate cook to deal with; the bounty of local produce is almost too great to appreciate in such a short time.
Now, it's time to look at the vegetables that make us think, "Hmmm ... how do I cook that?" They can be trickier to cook and challenging for the palate, but it is only a matter of trying a few good recipes.
I prefer the more robust cuisine that comes with the cold weather. I enjoy full flavours in my food and I love every minute of the upcoming season: I can hardly wait for braised beef short ribs, pork belly and bollito misto, a mix of boiled meats eaten with pickled squash. I have used squash in risotto, soup, purées, desserts, pasta and gnocchi and I've even made chips with it. Many of these recipes can be found in my upcoming cookbook, One Pot Italian.
When buying squash, check that the skin has no bruises or soft spots, which could indicate decay; it should feel very firm and heavy. Try to go to the market with a recipe in mind and buy accordingly.
Store your squash in a fresh, dry place with no light. Wash it carefully before cutting into it and remove the seeds, scraping the soft areas lightly.
Be aware that the skin is tough to cut on most squash and you will need a very sharp knife and patience. Using a potato peeler can help with some.
The recipe I am proposing works well with Hubbard squash because of its low moisture content.
SQUASH FLAN AND SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS
What you need
5 cups Hubbard squash, diced
Salt and pepper to taste
3 ounces olive oil
4 ounces butter
1 tablespoon honey or maple syrup
½ cup chopped onion
4 whole eggs
5 egg yolks
4 ounces grated parmigiano reggiano
1 package phyllo pastry
1 clove garlic
3 cups shiitake mushrooms julienne
2 ounces white wine
1 ounce aged balsamic vinegar
What you do
Season squash with salt and pepper and place in baking dish. Sprinkle some of the oil, butter and honey over squash. Bake at 450 F until tender, stirring occasionally so it doesn't burn. Remove and place in a strainer to drain excess water. Let rest for at least an hour.
Preheat skillet and add onions. Sauté until translucent and almost golden. Add squash and cook for 10 minutes to reheat and to dry the mix.
Place squash mixture in food processor or blender and add eggs, egg yolks and cheese, and adjust seasoning. Blend until smooth and set aside.
Grease a 10-inch springform pan with oil and line it on the bottom and sides with 6 to 8 sheets phyllo pastry. Brush some melted butter between each sheet.
Preheat oven to 375 F. Pour squash mixture into the mould and bake for 45 to 60 minutes. Remove and release the sides of the springform pan. Allow to cool.
Preheat skillet, add some oil, the garlic and the mushrooms. Sauté for a minute and sprinkle the wine; allow it to cook off completely, season to taste and set aside.
Slice a wedge of squash cake and place in the middle of a plate, spoon mushrooms over the slice and sprinkle the balsamic vinegar. The flan should be slightly warm when served. Serves 8.
Beppi's wine matches
The sweet creaminess of this squash creation is an ideal match for full-bodied, oak-aged chardonnay, especially the toasty, tropical-fruit-bomb styles common to the sunny regions of California, Australia and Chile. A fantastic bargain is Leaping Horse Chardonnay 2006 from California ($12.80 in Ontario). Also good: Errazuriz Chardonnay 2006 from Chile ($11.95). Okanagan chardonnays would work splendidly as well, such as Quails Gate Limited Release Chardonnay 2005 ($18.99 in British Columbia). For something more offbeat, try a sweet sherry.
Beppi Crosariol
