The humble squash appears to have quietly taken the same "heritage" path as the tomato of late. Many varieties once considered rare are enjoying a comeback. At this time of year, farmers markets and produce stands are rich with squash of all shapes, sizes and colours.
Winter squash, so called because they are suitable for long periods of winter storage, are harvested at full maturity and have hard rinds, whereas summer squash such as marrow or zucchini are harvested throughout the growing season, have thin, edible skins and are best eaten immediately.
From the home cook's perspective, some winter varieties may seem hard to work with. The rinds are thick and difficult to cut, and they are often so heavy they are cumbersome to handle and have a small ratio of flesh to rind. At the restaurant, we like to work with delicata, kabocha, buttercup and the large Hubbard varieties.
One of the easiest squashes to find is the butternut, which is also a convenient size for the average family to consume in one sitting. Select them heavy for their size and choose one that is deep orange in colour. This will ensure it is ripe, the flesh a little drier and sweeter.
Squash and Death Soup: butternut squash, mushrooms and the classic Halloween colours of black and orange. If you can't find fresh mushrooms, dried ones work well too. (Ryan Carter for The Globe and Mail)
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Another seasonal delicacy that arrives each year just in time for us to have a little fun with the menu around Halloween is the black mushroom called trompette des morts, or trumpet of death. It has become a Scaramouche tradition each All Hallows Eve to make something the kitchen brigade has christened "Squash and Death Soup."
The trumpet of death mushroom resembles a sinister-looking black petunia flower (aren't all petunias evil?). In reality, it is a harmless member of the chanterelle family.
The mushrooms should be crisp, firm, dry and break easily. What they lack in meatiness they make up for in flavour. Unlike other mushrooms, rinsing them in cold water doesn't seem to harm them. If you can't find them fresh, dried mushrooms work well too.
And, best of all, Squash and Death Soup is classic Halloween black and orange.
If mushrooms aren't your thing, a very good variation of this soup, which has become a family favourite in my home, is to omit the mushrooms and include about one tablespoon of mild curry powder when softening the vegetables.
Squash Soup with Trumpet of Death Mushrooms and Toasted Hazelnuts
What you need
1 medium-sized butternut squash, peeled, seeded and diced
1 small onion, peeled and sliced
1 small leek, white part only, sliced
1 celery stalk, sliced
2 ounces unsalted butter
6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
4 ounces fresh trumpet mushrooms or 1 ounce dried, reconstituted
½ teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
1 large shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 ounces toasted hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon flat parsley, coarsely chopped
Best quality hazelnut oil
½ cup 35% cream
What you do
Melt the butter in a large pot; add onion, leek and celery. Season with salt and freshly ground white pepper, cook gently without colour until soft.
Add the squash and continue cooking until the squash starts to break down a little.
Pour in enough stock to just cover, increase the heat and bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer until all is soft, about four to five minutes on low heat.
Pour the soup into a colander set over a bowl. Place the solids into a blender with enough of the liquid to allow the machine to work efficiently, and blend until silky smooth, pouring in more liquid as needed.
Pass through a fine meshed sieve into a clean sauce pan.
Heat a frying pan, add a little butter and sauté the mushrooms with the shallot, thyme, salt and pepper. Cook until the mushrooms are soft and fragrant. Put to one side and keep them warm.
Reheat the soup. Add the cream and a tablespoon of chilled butter and stir until absorbed and the soup is hot.
Pour into serving bowls, add some mushrooms, hazelnuts, parsley and a drizzle of oil to each bowl and serve.
Serves 8.
Keith Froggett is executive chef and co-owner of Scaramouche.
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