JUMEIRAH ESSEX HOUSE
160 Central Park S., New York;
(212) 247-0300;
http://www.jumeirahessexhouse.com.
Rooms and rates 515 rooms; standard from $354 to $541; suites from $634 to $1,027 for up to two rooms; three specialty suites starting at $5,600.
There are certain things you expect from a grand old Manhattan hotel: a marble and leather lobby; suites conceived by an "it" designer; bedding that you literally imprint. Jumeirah Essex House, renovated by its new, Dubai-based owner and unveiled Oct. 2, bears the unmistakable signs of an emirate cash infusion - right down to the complimentary Mercedes limo service around midtown and a planned presidential suite that, when it makes it debut next year, will be the largest in the city.
But alongside the material excesses, the $85-million refurbishment of this art deco landmark has reinvigorated the concept of service itself. "Stay different" is the motto of the Jumeirah Group, which also owns the Burj Al Arab in Dubai. Technically rated at four-plus stars (to qualify as a five-star, you need a pool), luxury here is found in personalized experiences and conveniences channelling New York's golden age, when the super-rich used hotels as their base for an entire season, not a weekend.
Location Located in the heart of midtown, directly opposite Central Park, the hotel is in the sweet spot for both business travellers and well-heeled tourists. The shops of Fifth and Madison avenues, the theatre district, and the brokerages, banks and corporate offices of Avenue of the Americas are all within walking distance.
Design Atlanta-based Hirsch Bedner Associates has transformed a dowdy Westin, skillfully layering contemporary glam upon the property's rich art deco past. In the lobby, in particular, period elements such as mahogany panelling, gold-leaf mouldings, and rosette motifs on the brass entry doors fit seamlessly with the palette of burgundy, gold and cream prevalent throughout the hotel.
Ambience A new lobby lounge adds warmth by day and a sense of anticipation by night. Order the Grand Essex - traditional afternoon tea served with a glass of Louis Roederer brut champagne - or a martini before heading out to Broadway.
Clientele The lobby doesn't announce itself with throbbing club music - like you'll find in so many boutique hotels. Yet for all its dark woods and leather, it doesn't feel stodgy, either. By extension, guests are an interesting mix of BlackBerry-transfixed chief executive officers, moneyed tour groups, Burberry babies and their parents, and (rumour has it) stars like George Clooney and Jennifer Lopez - all looking discreetly fabulous.
Rooms High-tech meets deco chic - with the comforts of home. Amid sleek bathroom fittings and high-definition TVs, you'll find surprises: an old-fashioned wind-up clock on a nightstand, a mini-bar with motion sensors that detect when you've sneaked a soda and tried to replace it before being charged.
Service We loved the trio of rubber duckies left in my daughter's crib - they became her new favourite toys. And the fact they didn't change the soap in the bathroom; we used the same full-sized bar for five days, not a daily round of mini-soaps.
Such touches of domesticity, in sumptuous surroundings, felt like the ultimate splurge.
The hotel has collected several awards for service excellence in the 22 months since the Jumeirah Group took over. (Incidentally, it's no relation to Istithmar, the investment arm of Dubai royalty, which has been snapping up Manhattan real estate from Barneys New York to offices on Park Avenue to the old Knickerbocker building in Times Square, bought in June, 2006, and currently being converted into a luxury hotel.) They include three at this year's World Travel Awards, a kind of industry Oscars, for North America's Leading Hotel, North America's Leading Business Hotel and New York's Leading Business Hotel.
Apparently the price strategy is to keep rooms 15-to-25-per-cent cheaper than competitors such as the nearby Mandarin Oriental or Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park. The neatly calculated effect was to leave us feeling as though we'd stumbled upon a sweet deal.
Food and drink With a toddler in tow, we requested discreet seating in the back of the main dining room. But a few oversized club chairs with upholstery that was coming unstitched failed to impress, as did the oversized cheque for a buffet-style continental breakfast.
A new restaurant and bar facing the park, 154 South Gate, is being readied for the end of the year. To match a huge skylight and the largest fireplace in Manhattan, chef Kerry Heffernan appears to be pulling out all the stops with a menu whose centrepiece will be the city's most extensive selection of dessert soufflés.
Things to do Making the most of a coveted address, room service offers a picnic hamper that includes a fleece blanket. Grab an MP3 player from the front desk and follow two free, self-guided walking tours highlighting Central Park landmarks. Or, if you can get tickets, check out Mel Brooks's stage version of Young Frankenstein, which opens tomorrow at the Hilton Theatre on West 42nd Street.
Before you do, take a moment to gaze around the lobby: an artist-in-residence program and in-house curator ensure an ever-changing display of Central Park-themed contemporary art.
Bottom line A 75-year-old stalwart artfully reimagined in a tribute to its past. Luxuries such as these have the power to enrich your whole experience of the city.
Hotel vitals
Top draws
Rooms are just average-sized - the smallest is 280 square feet, while suites are 600-plus - yet so comfortably appointed they seem larger. As a rare bonus, our suite was completely noise-proof.
Needs work
Although the renovation is almost complete, the elevators and the entire second floor - save for a new spa and well-equipped fitness room - remain in a ho-hum hunter green flower print that jars with the beauty of the surroundings.
In Pictures:
