VANCOUVER — Now this makes sense.
That was my first thought upon hearing that the owners of Lolita's South of the Border Cantina were planning to open a second restaurant on Commercial Drive.
Lolita's is a funky tiki-style lounge with modern Mexican food that just happens to be my favourite casual hangout in the West End.
Our love affair harks back to the summer of 2005, when I walked in by accident on opening night. Even with a lineup, broken cash register and conked-out beer fridge, this sassy senorita barely missed a beat. I was so impressed I gave the restaurant a rave review (the first of many she received).
Me & Julio, Lolita's younger brother, has had a much rockier birth. Complaints of slow service, cramped seating and insanely busy crowds have dogged senor since he opened last month. But perhaps that's to be expected when you expand from a hole in the wall to a 90-seat room, are working in Vancouver's overheated restaurant industry and have a lofty reputation to live up to.
Most of the major kinks appeared to have been smoothed out by the time I visited last Thursday night. Still, I could see where problems might
arise.
The space is about three times larger than Lolita's, but has a similar cozy vibe with its textured crimson walls, twinkling lights and palm-thatched bar that curves around the room like a tropical wave. Jaison Gaylie, who owns the restaurant with his sister Lila and executive chef Shelome Bouvette, built everything himself.
We took a seat at one of the raised communal tables, joining a much older couple who introduced themselves as Ms. Bouvette's babysitters. They looked quite comfortable sipping beer with the hipsters.
The waitress, alas, was having an extremely awkward time. Even though a few of the tables have apparently been removed (along with several inexperienced servers), the room is still an exceptionally tight squeeze. If the staff still has trouble reaching customers, it would probably be wise to remove a few more.
Me & Julio has one of the largest selections of tequila in the city. Shots are available in flights (from $17 to $32) and are served with wedges of pineapple, a pleasant chaser with less pucker than lime.
The cocktail list is new and even more creative than that at Lolita's. Cowboy limonada, lashed with a heavy kick of bourbon, is served in a glass boot. It's appropriately kitschy, as is the coco cabana (both $7.75), a blend of fresh strawberry purée, pina coconut crema and Mexican vanilla bean rum. I'm still trying to figure out how the bartenders managed to combine all that sugar and still make a drink that tasted refreshing.
I wish I could say the same about the food. Many of the dishes were way too heavy on pickled papayas, agave honey and other fruit flavours for my liking. I don't recall the food at Lolita's ever being so sweet.
Ms. Bouvette does not claim to be creating authentic Mexican dishes. She takes authentic ingredients and works them into her own original recipes, all cooked from scratch, and usually with festive results.
Take, for instance, the quesadilla de pollo ($9.75). The tortillas are folded into a pocket with smoked chicken, roasted yam, white cheddar and poblana chilies, then deep-fried. It's a clever riff on the original. And the condiments, a light cinnamon jus and fresh lime crema, work swell.
Not so much the sarsaparilla-glazed baby back ribs ($19.75). With all that sticky candy flavouring on the meat, the jicama and pineapple coleslaw added an unnecessary splash of sweetness. That said, I loved the plate's companion side of smoked gouda and cascabel chili macaroni and cheese.
Corn tacos ($15.75) are as good as ever (although some cutlery with our mains would have been nice).
The soupy paella ($17.75) in a spicy tomato and saffron-rice stew was 10 times better than the brown-rice aberration I recently ate at Lolita's when Ms. Bouvette was busy setting up the new place.
Ceviche habanero ($11.75) could have used some of the same moisture. The scallops, salmon and halibut were sucked dry of flavour.
Me & Julio is obviously experiencing some growing pains, but that's not against the law.
The restaurant is a natural fit for this slightly bohemian but culinarily starved neighbourhood. There is lots of passion in the kitchen. It just needs to reign in the fruit a bit.
"Mama pajama" has no reason to be upset. I'm sure Me & Julio will eventually do her proud.
Me & Julio: 2095 Commercial Drive; 604-696-9997.agill@globeandmail.com
*****
Side dish
FREE BUBBLES
Marquis Wine Cellars is toasting its 21st year in business with a free champagne and sparkling wine tasting on Saturday from 1 to 4 p.m. (1034 Davie St.). Big spenders might want to splash out on the store's French Fête at the Vancouver Museum on Nov. 21 at 7 p.m. Tickets to the wine and food tasting cost $75, with proceeds donated to the Downtown Eastside Women's Centre. Those who attend will receive a 10-per-cent discount on French wine purchases over $200.
FAN FAVOURITE
Chef Massimo Capra from Toronto's popular Mistura Restaurant is visiting Vancouver to launch his book One Pot Italian Cooking. Several events around the city are sold out, but you can still catch the Globe and Mail columnist and Food Network host at Tools and Techniques: The Store for Cooks in West Vancouver on Nov. 19. Tickets for the cooking class cost $95 and include a copy of the book. 250 16th St., West Vancouver, 604-925-1835.
