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Pepper has traditionally been like Robin to salt's Batman - always the sidekick. But it's time to give this half of the dynamic duo of the tabletop equal respect, nudge over the fleur de sel and shine the spotlight back on the king of spice.
In recent years, salt has experienced a renaissance, with exotic varieties such as black lava or Hawaiian pink becoming de rigueur in restaurants and gourmet food shops.
But at one time pepper was one of the most coveted luxuries in the world. The Huns demanded 3,000 pounds of peppercorns as part of Rome's ransom.
In the Middle Ages, pepper was as valuable as gold and was used as currency and rent.
Gourmands are discovering that pepper is not just the yin to salt's yang, but has a range of flavours and aromas all its own. Clockwise from top left: Szechuan, cubeb, dried green, pink, long, white and black pepper. (Ashley Hutcheson for The Globe and Mail)
Now gourmands are discovering that pepper is not just the yin to salt's yang, but has a range of complex flavour notes and aromas all its own.
"As with salt, people learn a language to evaluate the quality of a product. Just as kosher salt signifies a step up from plain iodized salt, Tellicherry [large ripe peppercorns from the Malabar coast of India] signifies a high-end black peppercorn," says Allison Johnston, co-owner of The Spice Trader, an apothecary-style shop on Toronto's Queen Street West that offers taste tests of its eight types of pepper.
"But beyond just the quality of a product, people need to know the characteristics they are looking for."
Greg Couillard, chef at Spice Room & Chutney Bar in Toronto's Yorkville neighbourhood, says he can't imagine cooking without pepper.
"I just love pepper, I love the flavour and the heat. I can't eat anything without pepper," he says.
"I'll use the white peppercorns, which can be quite spicy, for Thai food. I also like to blend white peppercorns with other spices like star anise to get a nice flavour for duck or any meat. I always find blending the spices is probably the most fun," he says, especially in rubs and marinades.
The three true types of peppercorns - black, white and green - are all berries that come from the same plant (piper nigrum) but are harvested at different stages of ripeness and then dried.
Green pepper is picked first, then black; the ripest peppercorns are used for white pepper.
Other berries that have been adopted into the pepper family are pink peppercorns, Szechuan pepper and grains of paradise.
Native to India, pepper accounts for a quarter of the world's spice consumption. Like cheese and wine, peppercorns have different taste profiles depending on where they are grown.
"But like any wine or olive oil," Ms. Johnston says, "it is up to the consumer to judge the flavour they prefer."
Do you want something milder or sharper? Fruity or woody? How much do you want the pepper to affect the essence of your dish?
Pepper's flavour is derived from two components: The oil from the outer "shell" - the pericarp - provides the aroma, and an organic molecule known as piperine provides the heat.
Once the outer shell of the berry is broken, the pepper oils immediately begin to release their flavour, ideally into your sauce, salad or steak. Pepper quickly loses flavour when crushed, making fresh-ground peppercorns essential for getting the full pungency of the spice.
"Indian pepper is seen as the highest quality by some because of its specific oil and resin content, which translates into a pleasing bite and aroma," Ms. Johnston says.
Sri Lankan peppercorns have a high piperine content, giving them a strong, bold bite, while Indonesian black pepper can have a citrus note.
In the world of white pepper, Sarawak peppercorns from Malaysia are valued for their quality.
Because white peppercorns have had their dark outer shell removed, they retain the bite of black pepper but lack its telltale aroma. They are useful for adding zing to a dish without affecting the taste.
Mr. Couillard is also a big fan of green peppercorns, which are picked when still unripe and soft.
Their flavour is milder, grassy and fresh. Often used in vinaigrettes or salsas, they are popular in Thai and Southeast Asian dishes such as curries, and are also good for pâté.
Green peppercorns packed in brine need to be rinsed or they will have a musky flavour, Mr. Couillard says.
"The Madagascar are the primo," he says.
"They make a classic steak au poivre. The thing I love about the green peppercorns is the texture - they pop when you chew down on them."
Peppercorns are not restricted to the main course. At Spice Room & Chutney Bar, Mr. Couillard uses pepper as a dessert garnish.
Black pepper makes a classic match with ripe strawberries and balsamic vinegar.
Adding pepper to fruit preserves or even fruit salad will add warmth to the dish, much like combining spicy and sweet in barbecue sauce.
"Pink peppercorns make a great dessert pepper," Mr. Couillard says.
"We've been doing a rose essence crème brûlée; you caramelize the sugar with pink peppercorns and it almost makes a peppercorn brittle, which is so addictive."
On the health front, black peppercorns have been valued for centuries as a treatment for impotence, an appetite stimulant and digestive aid, a cure for nausea and an antidote to poison.
Now, if someone could do something about the sneezing.
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Spice up your grinder
Red Peppercorns
Rare to find outside India, bright red peppercorns are plucked in the "in-between" ripening stage from green to black peppercorns.
Cluster Pepper
Clusters of dried green peppercorns are available in Asian markets and are common in Australia. Nice as a garnish or can be crushed and added to food.
Long Pepper
With its inch-long, rod-shaped berry, this spice is a relative of the black pepper plant. Used whole it can have sweet overtones. It is seen mainly in Asian or African cuisines, especially in pickling and brining.
Pink Pepper
Pink peppercorns are bright pink berries of a South American tree. Often found in mixed-pepper blends, they add a touch of colour and have a delicate, pine-like flavour. Nice with fish, cream sauces or fruit dishes and desserts.
Szechuan Pepper
These berries come from the prickly ash tree. They are used in Szechuan cuisine and taste milder than pepper, with a hint of clove, ginger and citrus. They are known to have a slight numbing effect on the tongue. Lightly toast the seeds before using. They go well with duck, chicken or pork.
Cubeb pepper
Originating in Indonesia, these berries are part of the pepper family but a bit larger than peppercorns, with a small protruding stalk. They are usually crushed or ground before use and have a slightly bitter, piney taste. Go well with beef and game meats.
Grains of Paradise
A West African spice. The small, reddish-brown seeds have a pungent peppery taste reminiscent
of coriander and cardamom.
Sue Riedl
