If the floral patterns we showcased last week sprung from the masterstrokes of Impressionist painters, then the prints on these pages have Abstract Expressionism and Op Art to thank.
It may not be a direct trajectory from Frank Stella and Victor Vasarely to Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs, but it's no coincidence that the stylized geometry of this season can be traced to the increasing presence of designers on the contemporary art scene.
Last week's New York Times Magazine cover story profiled Miuccia Prada's influential art foundation, where the creativity oozes like oil paint.
Toward the end of the piece, she explained that she has come to accept fashion as a business that need not be shut off from art. “I say all this because it was a little ridiculous how I wanted to keep entirely separate the art and fashion. In the end, I am the same person,” she is quoted by writer Michael Kimmelman.
Prada pants, $1,555 at www.prada.com. Boboutic long-sleeved shirt, $475 at George C (www.georgec.ca). Theory tank top, $110 at Holt Renfrew (www.holtrenfrew.com). Marc Jacobs heels, $585 at Davids (www.davidsshoes.com). (TOBIN GRIMSHAW)
Photogallery
Prada managed to summarize an ethos that is, in one way or another, driving the strongest message of the fashion world today: impact.
Blocky shapes and bold colour are guaranteed to make an impact, whether on clothing or canvas, says Keith Rushton, a professor and chair of the graphic design program at the Ontario College of Art & Design. “It adds dimension and visual dynamics and I think that's what a lot of people attempt to achieve,” he explains. “A very strong visual dynamic attracts people.”
Artist Angela Leach (whose work is shown here at Toronto's Wynick/Tuck Gallery) understands this. She is able to create more figurative movement than many literal depictions of people mid-step.
Geometric prints function the same way, allowing the eye to be stimulated by repetition and energy.
“It allows you to do so much more with so much less,” admits Joe Fresh designer Joe Mimran, a fan of concentric circles. He says his designs often originate in London art studios or are drawn from historical references. “I think women are just loving prints right now.”
And don't forget the accessories. Marni's Consuelo Castiglioni, for instance, showed off her softly sculptural approach to garments this season, adding spherical jewellery and hard-edged footwear to all the volume and watercolour hues. Shoes from Chloé and Sergio Rossi also look like they required knowledge of the Pythagorean Theorem to construct.
Balance notwithstanding, the biggest risk to geometric design is that it's not always easy to wear.
Rushton advises people to choose colour schemes that flatter their skin tone, while Flare magazine fashion editor Rita Liefhebber says women should remember that they are wearing the dress – it shouldn't be wearing them. Make a statement, she says, but stay away from the “art pieces that you'll never wear.”
If you do like a print that you'll never wear, you can always repurpose it as art by mounting it on your wall.
Prada would probably approve.
In pictures: Block party
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