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With apologies to Darwin, in a survival of the fashion It-est, handbags are fighting a losing battle. In fact, their downgraded status on the haute hierarchy is no longer even breaking news.
But fashion accessories are not a dying breed. The proliferation of designer jewellery is evidence enough to suggest that supporting-role style statements are alive and well.
Specimens from the likes of Marni, Lanvin, Etro and Louis Vuitton are quickly being swept up by savvy women who understand that a necklace or earrings will have, quite literally, a longer shelf life than a trendy dress. Equally noteworthy is that these accessories (interchangeable with “jewellery” in fashion speak) look as good on a size 2 as a size 10. Plus, in these uncertain economic times, a splashy cuff is a more cost-effective way to get a luxe label hit than a couture suit.
To be clear, these are not precious pieces that are encrusted with diamonds and pearls. Rather, they are redefining the notion of costume jewellery, both by virtue of the untraditional materials – think wood, wool or leather – and because they add a whole lot of oomph to the most ordinary “costumes.” Throw on a pair of jeans, a cotton tank and a bejewelled bib and, voila, instant-yet-accessible pizzazz.
Etro patent and gold purple stone cuff, $575 at George C. Purple stone earrings, $225 at Hermès. Lanvin three-piece bangle, $380 at Holt Renfrew (www.holtrenfrew.com). Marni plastic square bracelet, $305 at Holt Renfrew. Marni plastic necklace with leather strap, $675 at Holt Renfrew. Etro green multicolour ring, $250 at George C. Marni fabric and plastic necklace, $515 at Holt Renfrew. Metallic purple bandeau top, $16 at American Apparel. (Tobin Grimshaw for The Globe and Mail)
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“Fashion houses are branching out more from ready-to-wear and jewellery seems to make the most sense right now,” says Flare magazine's fashion director, Liz Cabral. “I think the beauty of it is that it's so versatile.”
Which means, come fall, retailers that have not already started will be pushing the trend. At a recent Holt Renfrew media preview, vice-president of fashion direction Barbara Atkin declared designer costume jewellery to be “the new heirlooms.” Spiky pieces from Burberry and mixed-media wonders from Dries Van Noten will probably sell out before Labour Day.
Store buyers stand to benefit from carrying designer jewellery, says Lisa Corbo, a Toronto retail veteran who co-owns the swellegant Yorkville boutique George C. with her husband. “They can buy a brand through the accessories,” she says.
Corbo says jewellery has always been presented on the runways, especially in Italy; it just never went into production. “You'd get fabulous designers [doing jewellery] and then [the pieces] just sit in a studio because no one ever focused on accessories becoming part of the clothing collections. Now, with clothing becoming more expensive, accessories are a lot easier to market.”
Just how much are the brands banking on jewellery to carry them through lean times? According to luxury expert Anny Kazanjian, a little bling can help to boost the bottom line.
“Before, it used to be fragrance and cosmetics in terms of entry points into a brand,” she says from Montreal. “Now, brand is marketing itself so that accessories are over and above handbags and over and above shoes.”
But the absence of rubies or sapphires does not mean that the look always comes cheap. Corbo's selection ranges from $250 to $895, which is fairly representative of the category, although Chanel unsurprisingly climbs into four figures. “I think it has to be reasonable,” she says, noting $1,000 or more should be considered fine jewellery.
What makes the accessories so much fun, though, is that they clearly reflect the sensibility of the designer. Betsey Johnson's pieces are cute and kooky whereas Tia Ciabani's for Ports 1961 are intelligent and organic. And because the personality of the pieces is often so bold, the best way to wear them is to keep clothing understated.
And, yes, they are a good distraction, Cabral says. “You can wear a dress that's 10 seasons old and put on a Lanvin necklace and you look like you're totally in the know.”
About our model
In less than six months, model Amanda Laine has gone from shooting hoops to shooting major fashion-magazine spreads.
And she's only 16 years old.
The homegrown beauty has ascended the gamine ranks with atypical momentum. She was discovered on the basketball court in Orillia, Ont., last November and by February, she not only walked the runway for Balenciaga, Marni, Dries Van Noten and Prada, she also opened the Miu Miu and Alexander McQueen shows and closed Louis Vuitton.
Laine is also the winner of V magazine's V A Model search, which is considered a far better predictor of a model's career than mainstream TV competitions. V magazine is the more accessible offspring of Visionaire, a highbrow, limited-edition quarterly.
Speaking of brows, Laine's are especially striking. Word has it international makeup artist Pat McGrath pronounced them “the best in the world.”
The 10th grader from Patrick Fogarty high school seems unaffected by all the attention.
Laine is a hard-core athlete who plays volleyball, lacrosse and hockey in addition to b-ball. Her four years as a gymnast and nine years as a dancer meant that she walked like a pro the first time she put heels on her size-eight feet. “All she had was one walking lesson and one photo shoot and then she was off to New York,” says Elmer Olsen, her Canadian agent. “And everyone falls in love with her because she's so friendly.”
She initially kept mum to friends about modelling. “If it didn't work out, I didn't want to be the kid who seemed like she lied.”
But it is working out, so much so that her parents, who accompany her everywhere, had to divvy up time away from their own jobs. “It's been a bit of a whirlwind,” says dad Tim, a firefighter.
Laine has resisted the allure of expensive designer duds, in part because Orillia is not exactly Canada's fashion capital. “I'm still growing,” she adds, her legs as long and lean as bamboo rods. “I don't want to buy a $300 shirt and not fit into it in three years.”
A.V.
