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Posted AT 12:00 AM EST on 06/09/08

Return ticket to India

PAUL THEROUX

Globe and Mail Update

Because it was a sacred city, a howling but deaf and discontinuous mob, mostly pilgrims, kicked along the streets and lanes of Amritsar. These sun-baked streets were thick with stinging dust and smelly traffic, and the traffic included sacred cows, three-legged dogs, old cars, twisted bikes, scooter rickshaws, pedicabs, the usual trotting two-wheeled pony carts – tongas and gharries – and rusted buses.

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