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There's nothing like a day in the country, mucking around on an organic farm, to inspire a chef. I've chased enough chickens, avoided enough free-range pigs and raided enough market gardens to know how good it feels to get your hands dirty and hang around with a farmer or two.
But I had never seen a hay-bale house, never met a fellow busy welding a bicycle into a self-powered grain mill, and never seen three chefs from a hospital, an oil company and a pharmaceutical company teamed up in the middle of a herb garden.
Recently, I found all of that and more at Everdale Farm near Hillsburgh, Ont.
On the first weekend in September, the farm was the site of the 19th annual Feast of Fields. This colourful festival was founded as a way to bring chefs and farmers together to promote organic agriculture and sustainability. It has become one of Canada's leading foodie events, and it's a great way to get out of the city to get up close and personal with your food. Every year it features numerous food stations manned by a who's who of local chefs, brewers, winemakers, bakers, farmers and assorted culinary superheroes.
Michael Smith shares the maple-glazed pork with fig chutney at Feast of Fields near Hillsburgh, Ont. (GLENN LOWSON FOR THE GLOBE AND MAIL)
The location was just as exciting as the event. Everdale Farm is an awe-inspiring place. Imagine 50 acres of organic vegetables, mixed livestock and passionate young farmers. The farm is an eco-tourism destination for anyone interested in the environment. Guests are encouraged to wander around and discover things such as a solar-powered shower, or how a beautiful farmhouse can be constructed off-the-grid and insulated with hay bales hidden behind stucco walls.
At this year's event, attendees also discovered how an untraditional team of chefs can create magic.
We tend to associate organic ingredients, creative cuisine and the farmer-chef connection with fancy restaurants, but the sustainability movement has become mainstream. At the festival I teamed up with chefs from Sodexo Canada, one of the country's largest food-service contractors. The company feeds thousands every day on university campuses, in corporate cafeterias and at remote industrial sites. Their slice of the food business is huge, but they're just as passionate about their food and where it comes from as many small, independent restaurants. It was a good fit, and our station in the herb garden was a hit.
Guests lined up to taste our maple-glazed barbecued Berkshire pork. We shredded the meat and served it in a miniature whole-wheat Yorkshire pudding that was finger-friendly and environmentally friendly (we didn't need to waste any disposable plates or cutlery).
The flavours were a hit, but it was our fig chutney that brought everybody back for seconds.
Fig chutney
Chutneys are all-purpose condiments distinguished by a fruit base, sweet and sour flavour profile, and lots of aromatic spices. This one is an excellent way to jazz up a simple grilled chicken breast, pan-seared salmon fillet or pork chop. You can make a batch and keep it on standby in your fridge, ready to add some flair to your next meal.
What you need
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
2 bay leaves
2 cups fresh figs
1 cup diced red onion
What you do
Pour the vinegar into a pot; add the sugar and spices. Bring everything to a rolling boil, then turn the heat down and simmer gently for five minutes or so, releasing the spice flavours. Add the figs and onions and continue simmering - stirring frequently - until the mixture thickens and reduces, about 30 minutes. Serve immediately or refrigerate until thickened even more. For the very best flavour, refrigerate for 24 hours or more, which will give the flavours time to mellow and combine.
Makes 2 cups or so
CHEF MICHAEL SMITH is the award-winning host of the Food Network's Chef at Home, Chef at Large and The Inn Chef. He is based in Fortune, PEI.
