A New York minute
Saturday, June 16, 2001
SIMON HOUPT
In this first of a six-part series by Globe correspondents on their cities, SIMON HOUPT takes you past the feel-good façades to find what really makes the Big Apple shine.
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The centre pavillion of the New York City Hall, summer 1981
Photo: George S. Lewis for Historic American Buildings Survey |
Cities are like lovers: They have their public and private faces. The public face of a city is the one it presents to tourists, all clean cheer and seductive repose. Visitors play their part and avert their eyes from reality, understanding they might be in for a rude shock or two if they peer behind the façade. But while this makes for superficial fun, it often means you leave a place without ever getting to know what it's really like.
In the case of lovers, we don't really fall in love until the public face falls away and we see the real person: the endearingly grumpy moods, unguarded opinions carelessly dispatched, an unexpected quicksilver flash of glee. It's the same with a city like New York. Sure, you can spend all your days strolling along the newly clean, newly commercial and endlessly celebrated 42nd Street. But why bother? Are the wax figures at Madame Tussaud's really what you've come all this way to see? Must you go to ESPN Zone for the five-metre video walls? Don't you get enough sports in front of your own TV? If you dare avoid the 64 Starbucks locations choking the five boroughs, you might even find a coffee bar that isn't exactly the same as the one you've got back home.
There are risks, of course: Once you get out of Midtown, you'll see a city that doesn't fit perfectly within the fantastical image painted by tour brochures and happy-talk journalists. After all you've heard, you may be shocked to see homeless people on the street. Someone will push you out of the way because you're moving too slowly. You might step on a rat the size of a cat. But throw yourself into the maw of New York life and you'll come away invigorated, knowing at the least you've experienced a dose of reality.
In most cities, no one spends much time thinking about daily activities, like hailing a cab, getting a haircut, taking the subway or buying milk. But New Yorkers have transformed them all into opportunities for one-upmanship. Ask three New Yorkers the best subway route for a journey, and you'll get four different answers. Why just have a late-Sunday breakfast if you can transform it into competitive brunching? Everyone has some place that's simply better than the one you happen to be raving about. Furthermore, landing a table at a popular spot means sharpening your elbows to a fine Tie Domi point.
It may not be relaxing, but it's true New York. If you can make it to a brunch table here, you can make it anywhere.
Best times to visit
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Central Park’s Bridge No. 27, the view from the bridlepath looking west, fall 1984.
Photo: Jet Lowe for Historic American Buildings Survey |
New York City is at its most enchanting three times during the year: the middle of spring, much of autumn and early winter. There is a period in April when the entire city seems to breathe a sigh of relief. Cherry blossoms bloom sweetly, kissing the brownstones with their delicate flowers. Sunbathers haven't yet overrun Central Park. Even the cabbies seem to smile. It's like something out of a Woody Allen film.
Just a few weeks later, the middle of May marks the beginning of street fair season, a tradition that underlines the central belief of New York City: that community can be built through commerce. Every weekend until the end of November, falafel, waffle, pillow and jewellery purveyors set up camp on a different Manhattan street. After a while, you notice they're the same guys moving from place to place, but the novelty and their good cheer lasts for at least a few weeks.
October is another nice time to drop in. The air is beginning to cool and the relative lack of tourists means it's easier to get a hotel room and theatre tickets.
The trees in Central Park don't usually turn until November, around the time of the Marathon (Nov. 4 this year), so your pedal boat won't get clogged with leaves.
Finally, it's so cliché that it's almost embarrassing to admit, but New York does take on a magical sheen between U.S. Thanksgiving and Christmas. The avenues are aglow with twinkling lights, hotels and bars throng with happy patrons, and if you're in a taxi accident, odds are that traffic will have been moving so slowly that you'll only sustain minor injuries. Hurray for the holidays!
Worst time to visit
Unless you love it when sweat pastes your clothes to your body; unless you've always wanted to sit in an overheated taxi with the air as still and hot as the honking cars around you; unless you adore the stench of garbage that has been bubbling in its own bag while sitting on the sidewalk for days on end, it's best to avoid New York during the extremes of July and August. It's like a sweat lodge without the spiritual healing.
A great 24 hours
New York has more restaurants per capita than any other place on Earth (or maybe it just seems that way), but you don't just want to begin your day at any old place. Kick it off with brunch at one of the Upper West Side's favourite places. Unlike so many other spots where the sunglassed-and-hungover mill around outside whining for a table, the food at Sarabeth's (423 Amsterdam Ave., 212-496-6280) is actually worth the wait.
After a brunch of chive-scrambled eggs, waffles or scones served with Sarabeth's own jam, walk off the calories by heading one block east to the American Museum of Natural History (Central Park West at 79th Street, 212-769-5100) where you'll find the stunning new exhibition, The Genomic Revolution.
Even if you don't go into the museum, take a moment to gaze at the architecture of the new planetarium, the Rose Center for Earth and Space on the museum's north side.
Stroll into Central Park at the 79th Street entrance and walk east, stopping in the middle of the park at the Henry Luce Nature Observatory in Belvedere Castle (212-772-0210). The observatory contains exhibitions dedicated to the wildlife found in the park and affords lovely views of the East Side. Just south of there, by the Byzantine Bethesda Fountain and Terrace, is where you'll find the roller-disco crowd dancing away on their skates. On weekends, it feels like the seventies are still alive.
From here, walk east out of the park and take your pick of galleries: The Metropolitan Museum of Art is at 1000 5th Ave. and 82nd Street (212-535-7710). At the moment, the fashion-conscious and the plain curious are lining up to see the Jacqueline Kennedy show there (until July 29).
While you're in Midtown, Pace Wildenstein gallery (32 E. 57th St. 4th floor, 212-421-3292) is great for high-end art that is thankfully free to visit. And the auction house Christie's (20 Rockefeller Plaza, 212-636-2000) is free to everyone in the days leading up to the sales. You never know what you're going to get, but it's always worth the visit.
If you really think you have to see the Statue of Liberty but can't stand the crowds (or tourists), take the Staten Island Ferry from the South Ferry Terminal at the bottom of Manhattan to New York's most ignored borough. The view of Lady Liberty is good, and so is the free ride. You'll feel yourself relax as Wall Street fades into the distance. (Then just turn around and come back.)
From there, waltz up the west side esplanade, which has been turned into a miles-long public park so clean and well kept you would swear it was Canadian.
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Looking southwest over Brooklyn Bridge towards lower Manhattan, 1982
Photo: Jet Lowe for Historic American Buildings Survey |
Dinner in the East Village is easy if you're slightly adventurous. Dok Suni (119 1st Ave., 212-477-9506) is always packed with trendy types looking for tasty Korean food. A few blocks north, Blue Velvet 1929 (227 1st Ave. 212-260-9808) offers aromatic, flavourful Vietnamese. The Elephant (58 E. 1st St. between 1st and 2nd Avenues, 212-505-7739) is a hot Thai-French fusion spot that can get awfully chaotic once the frenzy of the feeding hour begins.
Up for some alternative theatre? See what's on at HERE in Soho (145 6th Ave., 212-647-0202), a lively arts centre with three performance spaces. PS 122 in the East Village (150 1st Ave. at East 9th Street, 212-477-5829) is another very active spot where artists often grab their first public notice. Catch them on their way up.
If you're feeling peckish late at night, head up to Union Square for a bite at the Coffee Shop, (29 Union Sq., 212-243-7969), the main appeal of which seems to be that it's open late and most of the wait staff is hot (even more so after you've had a few drinks). If you can't get in there, walk the few blocks up to L'Express (249 Park Ave. S., 212-254-5858) where they serve bistro fare for a glorious 24 hours a day.
Finally, crash at 60 Thompson St. (212-431-0400), the Soho hotel known by its address. Aero Studio's Thomas O'Brien, who has done work for Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren stores, designed the interior. By the time you roll in, you won't be able to appreciate the plush lobby and modern room interiors, never mind the Frette linens. But you'll enjoy it when you finally wake up.
Best street food
New York magazine recently rated A Salt and Battery (112 Greenwich Ave., 212-691-2713) the best fish and chips shop in Manhattan, which might be damning with faint praise except for the fact that the food is actually damn fine. The pieces of fish are enormous: One serving of cod and fresh-cut chunky fries makes a great snack for two Village wanderers.
People come from all over the city for the oatmeal and raisin scone at Levain Bakery (167 W. 74th St., 212-874-6080), a tiny basement hideaway on the Upper West Side. Can oats be fresh? They taste that way in these heavenly creations, set off by a handful of golden raisins that are like plump little jewels.
It will take a force of will to make your way through Kalustyan's (123 Lexington Ave., 212-685-3451). This fragrant Indian spice and supplies shop has an astonishing array of specialty items that will waylay all but the most dedicated soul. But force your way through the temptations to the small deli counter upstairs. Falafel and other common sandwiches are fine, but focus on the vegetarian mujaddara, a luscious homemade stew of lentils, fried onions, tahini, lettuce, tomato, bulgar, and a crunchy pickle served in a pita. Some people who work in Midtown cab it here just so they can get their fix.
As for the Doughnut Plant (379 Grand St. between Essex and Norfolk Streets, 212-505-3700), who knew doughnuts could be an adult pleasure? These enormous, world-famous pastries have a deep, dark flavour that keeps changing as you work your way through them.
Shopping
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Corner detail of Grant’s Monument, 1963
Photo: Perry E. Borchert, Historic American Buildings Survey |
The Strand (828 Broadway, (212-473-1452) is famous for its eight miles of books. The over-stuffed shelves feel like they're going to tumble over you at any moment, but at least it'll be a pleasantly literary death. Best of all: unparalleled selection and deep discounts that prove you don't need to go to Barnes & Noble to pay less than retail. You can spend days here.
Sample sale freaks flock to Find Outlet (361 W. 17th St., 212-243-3177), where designer duds go at serious discounts. The stock changes every day or two, which means you can go back a couple of times during your visit. Nearby Comme des Garçons (520 W. 22nd St., 212-604-9200) is a showcase for Rei Kawakubo's forward-looking, bank-breaking designs. The store is as striking as the clothes.
Jeffrey New York (449 W. 14th St., 212-206-1272), created by an ex-Barney's retailer, is an oversized boutique that acts like a department store. The merchandise is high-end (D&G, Prada, Gucci, Helmut Lang), and owner Jeffrey Kalinsky loves shoes, so there's a great selection, but the staff is a lot more accommodating and interesting than you would expect from a place with this kind of stock.
While you're in the meatpacking district, drop by Boucher (9 9th Ave. 212-206-3775) for Laura Mady's delicate, unusual and affordable jewellery. A short hop away you'll find Destination (32-36 Little W. 12th St., 212-727-2031), which stocks European accessories and jewellery designers you won't find anywhere else. At Auto (805 Washington St., 212-229-2292), local designers fuel the scene, which feels like an art gallery.
Soho is still the best all-round clothes shopping experience for its variety (if budget isn't a concern), but wandering through NoLita (an acronym for North of Little Italy) offers the charm of discovery. You'll find lots of small designers getting their feet wet, with the smooth classics at Asp (185 Mulberry St., 212-431-1682) and the more post-modern duds at Orfi (13 Prince St., 212-625-9657). And Geraldine (246 Mott St., 212-219-1620) has one of the most exciting (albeit small) shoe selections you're likely to find.
Most overrated
Know this: Regis may rave about it, those twinkling lights might be enchanting, and Tavern on the Green (Central Park West at 67th St., 212-873-3200) draws out-of-towners like a nuclear fallout shelter during the Cold War, but no one who knows anything about food actually goes there. But if you're in need of a bathroom break while visiting Central Park, you can drop in here. As part of the restaurant's lease with the city, it must provide public restrooms.
As a rule, you also want to avoid anything that shows up in a Meg Ryan movie. Café Lalo (201 W. 83rd St., 212-496-6031) on the Upper West Side used to be a perfectly charming little post-theatre dessert place, until Ryan and Tom Hanks had a perky tête-à-tête there in You've Got Mail and fans of thin romantic comedies came running from around the globe. Same goes for the Carnegie Deli (854 7th Ave., 212-757-2245), once a grand haunt for borscht-belt comics, but now a tinny relic of its past, with prices that will choke you quicker than the brisket. And it's frankly embarrassing when Midwestern ladies in their 50s try to imitate Meg Ryan's orgasmic turn in When Harry Met Sally while you're trying to wrangle one of the deli's sour pickles.
The deli is just up the street from Times Square, an area that no right-thinking New Yorker actually ventures near. As a rule, it's almost impossible to get a half-decent meal within gunshot distance of the half-price theatre ticket booth (47th Street and Broadway, 212-221-0013).
Must not miss
If you haven't yet visited Grand Central Terminal (42nd Street and Park Avenue) since its elegant restoration a couple of years ago, make the time. It's a highlight of beaux arts design, and one of the few interesting landmarks left from the turn of the 19th century, since New York is constantly tearing itself down to build up something new. Make sure to look for the sculptures of Minerva, Mercury and Hercules around the clock on the main façade.
While you're in the neighbourhood, drop by the newly restored main reading room of the Humanities and Social Sciences Library (5th Avenue at 42nd St.).
Also undergoing renovation, albeit in a different vein, is the East Village (below 14th Street, 5th Avenue to 1st Avenue) and Alphabet City (below 14th Street, 1st Avenue to Avenue D). It's one of the few slightly bohemian areas left in Manhattan, with the shaggy-spirited mien of Amsterdam. If you venture there, you'll want to wear appropriate camouflage - black clothes, no fanny packs or obvious cameras - but it's a lot safer than it used to be.
Still, it's best to keep your wits about you, because it retains a touch of potential menace.
It's New York, right? Disney hasn't taken over the entire city just yet.
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