I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado 3500, and after driving for a while, I noticed when coming to a stop the brakes have a squeal. I’ve taken them apart and cleaned them, and they’re fine, but after a week or so the squeal comes back.
Derek
I’ve never kept official records, but I’m pretty sure noisy, squealing brakes is the No. 1 car complaint I get the privilege of dealing with on a daily basis. However, when I think back to the days that I was a young technician at a Honda dealer, I don’t seem to remember the problem being as prevalent. I’m dating myself now, but I remember early 90s Accords travelling 200,000 kilometers on a single set of brake rotors, only having to resurface them at each brake-pad-replacement interval.
How times have changed. The brake lathes at our shop – one stationary, one on-car-only – get used sporadically, whereas they used to be functioning all day long.
Manufacturers repeatedly state that brake parts and wheel bearings are exactly the same quality as I fondly remember, but I don’t buy it – everything is cheaper now.
Derek, your issue is going to be one of these issues: corrosion buildup on a poor-quality brake component, the use of improper brake lubricants, or one of the anti-squeal brake-pad shims is missing or not sitting in its proper place. Chances are, Derek, if your DIY skill level is sufficient, you are dealing with this latter issue.
Almost weekly, a vehicle shows up to my shop after receiving the $99 brake-job special from one of the numerous dark and dingy garages that populate most major cities’ back streets. The car owner is frustrated because they weren’t told their $99 investment came with these horrible noises emanating from their brakes. After we inspect and verify proper installation, we usually try to send the owner back to the original shop for some sort of warranty. Sadly, the vehicles usually re-appear a short time later with an even more frustrated owner, who now asks us to throw out the parts and start over again with better quality pieces.
Hi Lou!
Here’s an interesting one for you. I drive a 2012 Mazdaspeed 3 with 84,000 kilometres on it. My summer tires are 225/40-18s on factory rims. The car drives superbly on these tires and wheels. However, when I switch to my winter tires, which are 215/50-17s on aftermarket rims, I get a pull to the left on acceleration. When I lift, the pull disappears. Otherwise, the car tracks straight, there is no vibration or wheel-wobbling to indicate a bent rim or belt problem. Also, the car brakes straight and true.
But here’s the weird part. If I swap the front pair for the rears, the problem completely disappears. No pull, no nothing, just like on the summer tires. What do you think? All I can think of is that one of the tires is very slightly of a different diameter, and that the differential (it is limited-slip) is partly locking under power due to the different rotational speeds. It is a mystery to me.
Thanks!
Dave M., Tara, Ont.
That is an odd one Dave. Most higher-horsepower front-wheel-drive vehicles do have noticeable torque steer when winter tires are installed.
That being said, your limited-slip differential should not be engaging on acceleration, unless wheel slip is occurring. Therefore, your issue has to be tire related. The fact that your summer tires drive true and straight and your winters, in one orientation, also drive fine, indicates that one tire is not right. Could it be a tire diameter problem? Sure, but you should be able to measure your tire depth and verify and compare your results.
Any tire retailer will attest that sometimes tires can look perfectly fine but cause the oddest of drivability problems. Don’t overthink it Dave; I’m sure when the time comes to replace the winter tires, the new set will drive perfectly.
What’s on my radar
A recent study from research firm IHS Markit suggests that the average age of cars and trucks in the U.S. is on the rise at 11.9 years, while Canadian stats from 2016 indicate 9.6 years. However, I’m sure the Canadian numbers are also on the rise given the ongoing pandemic – people are being more cautious with their money. Accordingly, I have noticed a defined shift in the discussions that I have with my customers, from “what new car should I buy?” to “what used car should I buy?” Whether this is going to be a long-term shift or just a temporary blip is unknown to me, but since many are asking, here are my thoughts.
- Be realistic with your budget. Too many buyers try to reach for the newest car possible by buying a higher-mileage vehicle. I have found that most who purchase a high-mileage vehicle typically spend the amount they saved on unexpected repairs within the first couple of years of second-hand ownership. Looking for something well-maintained, but a couple of years older with average mileage, is almost always better.
- Know what average mileage is for your locale. For example, if you are located in the Greater Toronto Area, the average vehicle will see approximately 20,000 km per year. When a vehicle you are looking at has significantly lower kilometres per year than that, it had better come with a full service history so you can verify. No service history and low annual kilometres? I’d be cautious.
- Know who you are buying from. When you go to purchase a private vehicle, it should have a license plate on it that corresponds to the vehicle registration. If the car in question is only a few years old and has inaccurate – or no – plates on it, chances are you are dealing with someone flipping cars for profit, also known as curbsiders. Run away from these people.
- Don’t always trust the accident-free paperwork. Many cars have unreported accidents that were paid for in cash by the previous owner. It takes a trained eye to spot some of the not-so-obvious paint and accident-repair work. I regularly perform pre-purchase inspections on vehicles sourced from big local dealers that have undiscovered accident repairs. A pre-purchase inspection or second opinion by a qualified professional is never a bad idea.
Lou Trottier is owner-operator of All About Imports in Mississauga. Have a question about maintenance and repair? E-mail globedrive@globeandmail.com, placing “Lou’s Garage” in the subject line.
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