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The Globe and Mail

Summer’s boldest beauty trend: Going (mostly) makeup free

Each season, a new variation on “natural” makeup appears in magazines and on runways, and it usually involves a complicated process of layering primers, foundations, powders and blush for the illusion of an effortless appearance. But during the spring/summer 2014 shows, makeup artists ditched their beauty kits and sent models down the catwalk with bare-naked faces.

Leading the charge was Tom Pecheux, the French beauty master and creative director of Estée Lauder, who treated models to a veritable facial backstage at Balmain – prep work involved applying a mille-feuille of serums and moisturizers to create a dewy, natural sheen. At Alexander Wang, oil-free moisturizer was used to prime skin and only concealer was applied where needed; at Proenza Schouler, makeup was kept to an absolute minimum. For a slightly prettier look, beauty pros at Giambattista Valli, Lanvin and Emilio Pucci gave eyes a wash of pale colour in shades of taupe and light brown to enhance and hollow the shape of the eye. The approach was to use as few products as possible to create a look that was fresh, modern and real. As makeup artist Sheri Stroh told Globe Style while massaging cream into one model’s skin during this photo shoot, “it’s just about enhancing who you are in the simplest way.”

For those of us who don’t look like Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, leaving home without a swipe of mascara or layer of foundation can feel like wearing an I-heart-Justin-Bieber T-shirt: cruel and unusual punishment. But stick with me: The three makeup-light looks on these pages are guaranteed to give you Beyoncé-level confidence. Repeat after us: “I woke up like this.”
Alvaro Goveia for The Globe and Mail

Summer look No. 1: Totally naked

Ready for your #nomakeup selfie? The most extreme of the natural looks, a completely bare face can leave you feeling exposed. The trick is to focus on skin care and perfecting your complexion rather than covering imperfections. “Analyzing and understanding your skin is the first step in creating a flawless canvas,” says Holly Sherrard, education manager of Canadian skin-care company Dermalogica.

But with so many formulations and miracle ingredients on the market – including those used to target redness, dark sports, dehydration and acne – developing the right regime can be a challenge. Sherrard recommends consulting a dermatologist or aesthetician who’ll customize a plan for your skin type. “You want skin care that enhances your natural tone and texture, not products that overpower or mask your skin,” she says. When in doubt, multitasking products that hydrate, protect and offer light coverage (such as BB or CC creams) are an easy way to streamline your routine.

One last tip: “Take your time and massage skin when applying products to boost circulation and give you an instantly plumped appearance,” Stroh advises.
Alvaro Goveia for The Globe and Mail

Try these

1. Diptyque Infused Facial Water, $66 at Holt Renfrew . 2. Philosophy The Micro Exfoliating Wash, $44 at Sephora , Hudson’s Bay and Shoppers Drug Mart . 3. Estée Lauder Double Wear All-Day Glow BB Moisture Makeup SPF 30, $45, Estée Lauder Wear Brush-On Glow BB Highlighter, $31 through 4. Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex, $107 through 5. M.A.C Prep+Prime CC Colour Correcting SPF 30 in Recharge, $36.50 at M.A.C.
Alvaro Goveia for The Globe and Mail

Summer look No. 2: Blushing pink

For those times when going without a stitch of makeup is too informal (wedding season approaches, after all), opt for a feminine look through translucent berry blushes and petalpink lip colour to create a lit-from-within flush. 

At Diane von Furstenberg, James Kaliardos blended blush across cheekbones and into the temples (he called the result “natural but expensive”), while Lucia Pieroni skipped the mascara at Vera Wang and used Clé de Peau Beauté Eye Colour Quad in browns and peach to create definition. “You still want to see the skin,” says Stroh. “Focus on semi-sheer colour and remember that less is more.” Stressing the importance of blending, 

Stroh recommends using your fingers to apply cream formulas – on both your eyes and your cheeks – for a seamless second skin, then sweeping a luminous powder over cheeks to set the colour. Apply a rose-tinted lip balm and curl bare lashes to open the eye area and you’re good to go. Not convinced you can leave the house without mascara? Opt for one in soft brown instead of black.
Alvaro Goveia for The Globe and Mail

Try these

1. Rimmel London Stay Blushed! in Touch of Berry, $6.99 at drugstores and mass-market retailers. 2. Fresh Sugar Tulip Tinted Lip Treatment Sunscreen SPF 15, $22.50 at Sephora.3. Dior 5 Couleurs Designer Eyeshadow in Nude Pink, $61 at Hudson’s Bay. 4. Tweezerman ProCurl Lash Curler in rose gold, $26 at Hudson’s Bay and Holt Renfrew. 5. Clé de Peau Beauté Luminizing Face Enhancer, $92 at Holt Renfrew.
Alvaro Goveia for The Globe and Mail

Summer look No. 3: Bronzed beauty

Forget six-inch stilettos: A seamless tan can provide just as much swagger as a towering pair of Nicholas Kirkwoods. As Stroh says, it “instantly makes you seem refreshed, like you just got back from vacation.” Instead of sitting in the sun, however, create a sophisticated glow before you leave the house, one that’s more St. Tropez than Snooki. 

For inspiration, look to the Proenza Schouler show, where makeup artist Diane Kendal used M.A.C Face and Body Foundation in a shade slightly darker than the skin tone to create a healthy, athletic glow.

Stroh recommends applying a tinted moisturizer with SPF under a shimmer-free bronzer, which has come a long way from the orange-based powders that turned you into an Oompa Loompa. Choose one that’s no more than two shades darker than your complexion, then sweep it over your cheekbones, forehead and the bridge of your nose for a sun-kissed sheen or along your jawline and hairline for a more defined, contoured appearance.
Alvaro Goveia for The Globe and Mail

Try these

1. Guerlain Terracotta Sun Celebration powder, $84 at Guerlain , Holt Renfrew and Hudson’s Bay. 2. NARS Contour Blush in Olympia, $46 at Sephora, Murale, Hudson’s Bay and Holt Renfrew. 3. SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50, $39 through 4. Rodin Olio Lusso Face Oil, $125 at Holt Renfrew’s H Project shops. 5. CoverGirl TruMagic Skin Perfector in The Sunkisser, $13.99 at drugstores and mass-market retailers across Canada.

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