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Styling by Andrew Sardone. Hair and makeup by Robert Weir for TRESemmé Hair Care and MAC Cosmetics/ Construction materials provided by The Home Depot Canada (

Matthew Gallagher
With a mere 10 looks, most of them highly tailored, Nova Scotia native Matthew Gallagher snagged lots of best-newcomer kudos at the last World MasterCard Fashion Week in March. His second Toronto presentation, on Oct. 23, will reveal a new appreciation for embellishment and looser silhouettes.
“It is always nerve-racking to think that you are about to put something into the world that you have cultivated over such a long period of time. Not everyone is going to love everything you do and that is something I find important to focus on.”
“I would be lying if I said I wasn’t nervous [about presenting my second collection in Toronto], but I also feel confident that what I’ve created is going to be fresh and a step forward from last season.”
“My spring collection is based on my summers in Italy. ... I drew inspiration from the colours, the flowers, the love of print and the sense of artisan culture that is so vibrant in those small coastal villages.”
Maison Matthew Gallagher dress, $1,040 through

Raina + Wilson/The Globe and Mail

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Calla Haynes
A border-defying talent, Calla Haynes operates out of France, prints textiles in Italy and shows in most of the world’s fashion capitals, including New York, Tokyo and London. Recently, she was in her hometown of Toronto to present her new line at The Shows.
“I moved to Paris in 2002 to study fashion design and fell in love with the city. My entire professional experience has been in this city and I couldn’t imagine creating anywhere else.”
“Fashion is global. I have stockists all over the world and I honestly can’t say that one is more important than another. New York is a great place for young designers to be received by the press. Paris is a great place to create and to hold most of our sales appointments. And coming to Toronto to show the collection is a great way to connect with my Canadian customers.”
“For the first time, I attempted a nostalgic collection [for spring 2014] – nostalgia for that time when I first discovered fashion: the early 1990s. So I researched Gianni Versace, Alaïa, the supermodels, Bruce Weber, Baywatch, [Beverly Hills] 90210 and Clueless.”
Calla dress, $1,200 through Booties, $110 at Aldo (

Raina + Wilson/The Globe and Mail

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Claudia Dey and Heidi Sopinka
Claudia Dey and Heidi Sopinka of Horses Atelier are fashion locavores, manufacturing their easy dresses and smocks close to their Toronto homes and collaborating with area artisans. For spring, the duo worked with the dye-room team at the National Ballet of Canada to create their textile palette.
“We design for a woman who curates her world outside of trends; her style is a kind of autobiography. ... [Envisioned] with her in mind, our production is a mile away from our atelier and there is an Old World attention to detail in every piece.” – C.D.
“Being profiled in the June issue of Vogue [was a highlight]. It landed on our first-year anniversary. We came of age studying Vogue cover to cover so it felt like meeting an idol. It has pushed open a lot of heavy doors.” – C.D.
“We are aiming to grow into a creative studio as well as a design house. ... We figure that, if we continue to keep it personal and grow in a way that feels aligned with our original vision, things will happen quietly and steadily.” – H.S.
Horses Atelier dress, $495 through Flats, $70 at Aldo (

Raina + Wilson/The Globe and Mail

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Pedram Karimi
Montreal’s Pedram Karimi personifies the city’s independent, fashion-forward approach to design as well as the tension between creative freedom and selling clothes. His label was established just last year.
“I launched my [unisex] collection in an art gallery in Old Montreal in April 2012. Montreal is amazing because it’s nearly 400 years old, it always has some political turmoil, it’s poor yet rich and it’s sophisticated yet gritty. ... It’s exciting creating and living in such a city.”
“Being avant-garde rather than mainstream is an approach that I stand by. I know that I narrow down my clientele by maintaining this stand, but I don’t mind, since I’m not interested in pleasing everyone.”
“My new diffusion line is more affordable and is inspired by the characteristics of youth, such as impulsiveness, impatience, passion, experimentation and hope.”
Pedram Karimi short jumpsuit, $350, Pedram Karimi for Hikis sandals, price on request, Steven McCuen and Dana Dal Bo x Pedram Karimi necklace and case, price on request through

Raina + Wilson/The Globe and Mail

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Jason Matlo
Jason Matlo’s Western Canadian roots aren’t immediately apparent in his high-fashion frocks – until the designer likens the sleek fit of his favourite jersey to the technical fabrics used for yoga pants. This fall, his collection has landed at The Room in Toronto, marking his big jump east.
“Our spring 2014 collection marks our 10th year in the fashion industry. ... After design school, I competed for the Smirnoff Fashion Awards, where I represented Canada at the international finals. I was also the winner of the Life Network reality television show Making It Big, which allowed me to display my collection at Saks Fifth Avenue.”
“It has been difficult over the years to have a buying team in Canada recognize what we do, so having our collection in The Room is a definite milestone. I feel proud as a Canadian designer to hang next to the most established and sought-after designers from across the globe.”
“When I started a decade ago, many people told me I was out of my mind and I would be out of business after the first collection. However, being from Vancouver has enabled me to create very sexy and glamorous collections because I fill a very specific niche. I have become the go-to man for hyper-glamour!”
Jason Matlo dress, $890 through Platform heels, $130 at Aldo (

Raina + Wilson/The Globe and Mail

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