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The Globe and Mail

Burberry, Tom Ford, Erdem take the runways at London Fashion Week

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“I was always afraid of black,” said Erdem Moralioğlu backstage. It was a funny comment for someone who has shown no fear using saturated colours and pushing all manner of floral print. But gosh, it’s black that should be afraid of him; Moralioglu applied sheerness and texture to give black beautiful dimension.


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When Moralioğlu did use colour – hues that could all be found in Monet’s water-lily paintings – we often found it veiled behind a layer of black organza. In some cases, there were two faces to a look: a colour on front giving way to a solid black back. Altogether, this gave the collection moody depth.


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Moralioğlu revealed that Ingmar Bergman was among his influences. Certainly, the designer pushed himself this season – and tested whether he could create pieces that emphasized form and not just surface detail. It was one of his strongest yet.


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Burberry’s chief creative office Christopher Bailey affectionately named his latest collection “Trench Kisses.” With Downton Abbey’s Michelle Dockery, Kate Beckinsale and singer Rita Ora looking on, the first model walked the runway in a classic trench adorned with hearts.


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A menagerie of stylized animal prints on calfskin soon followed. The spots also appeared on bags and shoes. The limited colour scheme allowed Bailey to mix and match the patterns – while also introducing edgier metal eyelets and rivets.

Joel Ryan/AP

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All the bits and blobs on this coat created the effect of golden raindrops that had settled on the surface.


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The final grouping of looks featured dresses with cross-the-heart necklines (get it?). With the Academy Awards mere days away, one of these dresses would make a strong statement on the red carpet – and even more so on stage accessorized by an Oscar.


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Spots also appeared at Tom Ford who seemed to move away from his characteristic assertive restraint towards something far louder but no less luxurious.

Jonathan Short/AP

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Within the grand salons of Lancaster House, a mansion whose gilding and scale could almost rival Versailles, Ford sent out an electric collection of colour-blocked furs paired, often paired with delicately lace layers. It’s perfect music video material, no?

Jonathan Short/AP

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This was one of the subtler looks in the collection.

Jonathan Short/AP

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Ford can do a body-skimming dress as well as anyone. What surprised this season were the bolder colours and motifs. Like a collision in a comic book, the sequined motif on this one seems to be saying: Ka-pow!


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