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Globe Style picks 14 trend-setting looks from Paris Fashion Week

More hot new looks from Paris Fashion Week

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ROLAND MOURET In his program notes, Roland Mouret explained why he loves showing in Paris: “Paris demands something of me, itself a feeling… it makes demands on you and of you.” This season, his muse was Catherine Deneuve from the 1983 vampire film, The Hunger.


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Did it demand too much of the designer? Mostly, he rose to the self-imposed pressure and sent out a collection that seduced in its strict silhouettes. But his twist on the peplum – three-dimensional square folds at both hips – seemed overworked.


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Mouret continues to tailor dresses with impeccable precision. He doesn’t even need to forge new fashion ground when his instinct for sharp feminine daywear is so good. Here, his confidence also comes across in the choice of strong red.


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ISABEL MARANT Isabel Marant bid adieu to the Americana references that captivated her for several seasons. Gone were the stylized football jerseys and rodeo shirts; this season was all about layered fine gauge knits, barely there skirts, and off-duty leggings. Stud and grommet accents saved the collection from heading to far towards luxe lounge.


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MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Men’s tailoring is shaping up to be one of the strong themes of Paris Fashion Week. It appeared at the opening of the Maison Martin Margiela show. But since the line’s raison d’être involves rethinking proportion and perverting the status quo, jackets were shown with exaggerated, enlarged sleeves.


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MMM also shows an Artisanal collection during Couture Week. A similar creative craftsmanship was evident at various points throughout the show.


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This was one of those design details that made you wonder, “Why hasn’t anyone thought of it before?!” Whether in fur, leather or wool, many of the jackets featured a band that held long hair securely in place. Question is: which brand will be the first to copy it?


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The final grouping of silk dresses marked the show’s date and time and also the word “défilé”(French for runway show). But as many have noted, it could easily have been misconstrued for “defile”. If the shapes were not as provocative as seasons past, at least the message was.


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SONIA RYKIEL This was the debut collection for designer Geraldo da Conceicao who grew up in Toronto before moving to the fashion world and rising through the ranks at Yves Saint Laurent, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton. The designer returned to Rykiel’s tradition of knitwear while also imposing a sexier message.

Zacharie Scheurer/AP

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Da Conceicao made sure to present looks that would still appeal to the longtime Rykiel woman – one who might have started wearing her striped dresses two decades ago and could imagine herself in this double-breasted sweater jacket.

Zacharie Scheurer/AP

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But clearly, the designer is hoping to also attract a younger customer – one who would be open to the cheekiness of this little black knit dress.

Zacharie Scheurer/AP

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JOHN GALLIANO Bill Gaytten becomes more and more certain of what his vision at John Galliano with each collection. The silhouette for Fall was focused and sculpted – with a sense of energy coming from looks like this statement coat in blue with red flocking as if it had been spray painted.

Thibault Camus/AP

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Some silhouettes were well constructed if not also more challenging. The salt-and-pepper effect of this suit was strong as was the handkerchief-style peplum. But wide culottes may prove a tougher sell.

Thibault Camus/AP

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Following the disciplined suiting, Gaytten shifted to draped dresses for evening that concealed the body in a way we would never have seen from Galliano. Still, there was richness and elegance to the designs. They will find an audience.

Thibault Camus/AP

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