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NY Fashion Week: Michael Kors' statement-making collection lights up the runway

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Kors is a guy who always sees the glass half full. Witness his uplifting spring collection, arguably the designer’s most statement-making in seasons. Inspired by sunny California, particularly life in Palm Springs where mid-century modern architecture prevails, the mood was very op-art-optimistic . Think rounded pockets on coats and minis, stripes and lots of them, shifty mod shapes. Almost all of the fabrics were bonded and double-faced (even the leather) giving the whole collection a crisp, polished feel. I loved seeing the Kors fantasy through his eyes. And I could, literally: The pool and sky prints were taken by the designer on a trip to Palm Springs.

CARLO ALLEGRI/REUTERS

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A model presents a creation from the Michael Kors spring 2013 collection.

Richard Drew/AP

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A model presents a creation from the Michael Kors spring 2013 collection.

CARLO ALLEGRI/REUTERS

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A model presents a creation from the Michael Kors spring 2013 collection.

Richard Drew/AP

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Gilles Mendel can cut a party dress but even he couldn’t help but stress the pantsuit for spring. The trend that walked a thousand runways for fall, the suit (presented here more as evening wear than work wear) made appearances alongside the statement dresses Mendel does so well. This time, the designer played with pleats, softened by flowing fabric and hardened with leather collars. Fur, a staple at J. Mendel, made an appearance, too. Hey, we’ve been seeing a lot of leather for spring/summer, so is fur really a big surprise?

Richard Drew/AP

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A model presents a creation from the J. Mendel spring 2013 collection.

Richard Drew/AP

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A model presents a creation from the J. Mendel spring 2013 collection.

Richard Drew/AP

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A model presents a creation from the J. Mendel spring 2013 collection.

Richard Drew/AP

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“There’s really something in India,” said an attendee at the Marchesa spring/summer show yesterday. The second collection in as many days to mine the East for inspiration (Vera Wang was the other), this collection was a lot more literal – and less successful because of it. Despite the classical sitar music giving way to modern MIA (who is Tamil, by the way), the line felt very traditional. Strapless saris, tunics, babydoll dresses and more bore Marchesa’s signature opulence and embroidery (which was stunning, as usual). The best looks were the most modern – particularly an eggplant asymmetrical cocktail dress on Cara Delevingne that hinted at a sari without it actually being one.

LUCAS JACKSON/REUTERS

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A model presents a creation from the Marchesa spring 2013 collection.

LUCAS JACKSON/REUTERS

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A model presents a creation from the Marchesa spring 2013 collection.

LUCAS JACKSON/REUTERS

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A model presents a creation from the Marchesa spring 2013 collection.

LUCAS JACKSON/REUTERS

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A model presents a creation from the Marchesa spring 2013 collection.

LUCAS JACKSON/REUTERS

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A model presents a creation from the Michael Kors spring 2013 collection.

Richard Drew/AP

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