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One last round: Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu and Elie Saab wrap up Paris Fashion Week

Amy Verner reports from the runways of Paris Fashion Week. The last shows of the season included the new spring/summer 2012 collections of Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu and Elie Saab

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Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2012 ready-to-wear collection Louis Vuitton has traditionally held the final morning slot of Paris Fashion Week. Unsurprisingly, the maison stages a mega-production. On this occasion, a cylindrical curtain dropped to reveal an all-white, fully functioning carousel. One model to a horse, they gradually stepped off and promenaded around the circular runway.


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The collection was a reverie of prettiness, exuding romance, joy and a Parisan bel esprit. Working with feathered tweed, studded leather Broderie Anglaise (an intricate lace) and sportier tulle cashmere, designer Marc Jacobs pushed the limits of craft and timeless style, sometimes adding pastel-hued parasols for a touch of whimsy.


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Most often, he wrapped the lace in organza, or “silk cellophane,” which created a soft layering effect, as if adding a coloured filter atop a perfect sunset. The details were decadent but never ostentatious. Most importantly, this is territory that no fast-fashion chain can touch.

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To keep the collection from getting too precious, Jacobs applied the Broderie Anglaise to motorcycle-style jackets (which also came in whitewashed crocodile) and used it as diamonds for an argyle pattern.

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These fabric and studded flowers seem to be blooming right off the garments.

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So were the bags second fiddle? Hardly, especially this basket-weave style in mirrored leather.

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And don’t forget the footwear, a fresh take on the Mary Jane as a multi-strapped mule with reflective finish.

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Anyone too transfixed by the carousel (which sadly, would be dismantled following the show), might have missed Kate Moss in the finale look, a sequined, feathered lace dress, complete with tiara. Looking good, Kate!

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Meanwhile Marc Jacobs appeared entirely in white, a departure from his preferred black kilt. The fashion industry pegs Jacobs as the most likely successor to the Dior throne, which would force him to depart Louis Vuitton (both brands are owned by LVMH). With this collection, he proved ready for couture.

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Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2012 ready-to-wear collection Miu Miu is the second collection designed by Miuccia Prada and has often been considered Prada’s younger, quirky sister. The collection began uncharacteristically sedate in greys and blacks. Granted, this beribboned curtain adornment is not your average cover-up.


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But following a grouping of lace shift dresses (can spring possibly be any lacier?), came the Miu Miu gal as we know and love her: a patchwork of eccentric upholstery prints. Somewhere, a castoff family of sofas and drapes is begging for credit.


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Miu Miu can always be counted on for kooky footwear, coveted by the fashion-obsessed. Witness these loosely interpreted cowboy boots, prime material for street-style blogs.

Jacques Brinon/Jacques Brinon/AP

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Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2012 ready-to-wear collection Lebanese designer Elie Saab creates fashion for the red carpet. I suspect he’s never met a spangle he doesn’t like. As my show seatmate Flare editor Lisa Tant tweeted: “Hollywood has him on speed dial.” So this sequin dress, albeit pretty, came across as more of the same.


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Ditto this gown. But at least sequins in yellow ochre are more distinctive. Here’s where you play the role of stylist and decide which actress would wear it best.


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Oh look, there’s Princess Beatrice! It took a moment to recognize her without the extreme headgear.

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Saab did offer some daywear options in pleated crepe georgette, chiffon and lace, sans sparkle. The jumpsuits were extra flowy. Model Karlie Kloss is wearing a one-shouldered dress.


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Kloss, a designer darling and runway fixture, closed the Elie Saab show in a lapis-blue sequin gown. Which means she also closed Paris Fashion Week – and the SS12 fashion season, for that matter. A bientôt ... until February!

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