'Artisinal' American sportswear dominated the catwalks. Think irregular knits, raw-edge seams and even a poncho or two
Rag & Bone
At Rag & Bone, double-breasted blazers were finished with raw-edge seams and sweaters were irregularly knit in a mishmash of stripes and squiggles.
At Alexander Wang, black, heat-activated leather pieces turned acid green and yellow as the models wearing them moved through a set piece constructed out of furnace ductwork.
Singapore-born, Nepal-raised Prabal Gurung’s show updated a classic cable-knit sweater by layering it over a coral chiffon skirt and under a red wrap, mimicking the traditional robes sported by Tibetan monks.
Zero + Maria Cornejo
Zero designer Maria Cornejo found inspiration in her Chilean roots for alpaca ponchos and layers of geometric prints.
At Michael Kors, there was plenty of camel but there were also herringbone dresses studded with grommets and a sequin-fringed skirt (Kors emphasized “artisanal embellishment for day” in his show notes).
DKNY designer Donna Karan described her collection as “a collage of texture” and drew on the Big Apple’s patchwork of indie creatives by casting artists, DJs and students to model her mashup of fur and lace.
Wes Gordon's refreshingly grown-up collection ticked all the season’s textural boxes: weaving (a sweatshirt in a translucent, basket-like fabric embellished with pearls and Swarovski crystals), embroidery (a dress given a homespun quality with stitches of black-and-white ribbon) and fur (a dense beaver coat topped a cashmere jumper and silk skirt).