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Vera Wang and J.Crew shine on the runways at New York Fashion Week

Best new looks from New York Fashion Week

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VERA WANG Is Vera Wang the ultimate overachiever? At Tuesday’s presentation, she took up collaging - like a boss. The whole thing was a succinct mood board; Stone rose raised jacquards under floating silks bearing the same patterns, print-blocked trousers that made you long for the new and dresses assembled seemingly from different eras and swoops of fabric. I’d love to see her Tumblr.

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Vera Wang at New York Fashion Week

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Vera Wang at New York Fashion Week

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DIESEL BLACK GOLD Ok, so gas stations - and the people that run them - are an unexpected reference point for a fashion label, but Diesel has always been a rebel that way. And, well, just look at the name. Monday’s collection was the first by new creative director Andreas Melbostad, who look liberties with the theme, sweeping it into something much sharper than “gas station architecture” (who knew that was a thing?), a theme listed in the show notes. No, these were more like biker chicks of the future, especially in the white leather looks which were the freshest. Think Richard Prince’s Motorcycle Girlfriends (with clothes, though) by way of the Jetsons.

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Diesel Black Gold at New York Fashion Week

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Diesel Black Gold at New York Fashion Week

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OSCAR DE LA RENTA When Oscar de la Renta thanked his design team in the show notes, John Galliano’s name was suspiciously absent. It didn’t need to be there: Galliano, who has been toiling away mysteriously at de la Renta’s atelier of late, had his stamp all over the runway. Forties-era suiting with the folds piled on, bias cut dresses in chartreuse and crimson and even the partied-in makeup looks toward the end bore his signature. It was the best of both designers, and you could feel that they breathed new life into the work, especially in the electric eveningwear. A good test of waters for Galliano, a leap forward for de la Renta.

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Oscar de la Renta at New York Fashion Week

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Oscar de la Renta at New York Fashion Week

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Oscar de la Renta at New York Fashion Week

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Oscar de la Renta at New York Fashion Week

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J. CREW Nothing makes you want to primp meticulously every morning like stepping into a J. Crew store. Those guys are downright masterful with styling. At their presentation Monday morning, the feeling was magnified. All those lovely, polished looks, each sweater tucked considerately into a cropped trouser or printed skirt, just screamed “get it together already, you slob.” Prints and embroidery were key here, inspired by a trip designer Tom Mora’s took to Marrakech. My favorite look was an embroidered sweatshirt paired with a spotted gold pencil skirt, those colours were reminiscent of a sunset in the desert. And the accessories, especially oversized clutches designed by Montreal’s Want les Essentiels, are already on my shopping list.

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J.Crew at New York Fashion Week

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J.Crew at New York Fashion Week

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J.Crew at New York Fashion Week

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