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The Globe and Mail

London Fashion Week: Christopher Kane and Burberry shine on the runway

Amy Verner dissects the offerings of two of the most anticipated shows at London Fashion Week

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Christopher Kane favours materials and flourishes that have a playful sensibility but his treatment of them is invariably refined, feminine and often also formal. Here, plastic loops cover two-thirds of a dress; the middle, where a slim silhouette matters most, has been left unadorned.


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Kane is never shy to apply a little hit of wit to his collections. This season, the pieces of garments appeared to be held together by plastic nuts and bolts. As the looks progressed, he revealed his monstrous muse. Of course, in Kane’s hands, these were Frankenbelles.


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The photographers would surely have had a laugh when a grouping of dresses appeared to boast strips of gaffer tape. Once again, though, it plays on Kane’s idea of holding everything together, even if in this case, its purpose was strictly decorative. What’s more, the black pieces became a strong point of contrast against the soft pink.


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Burberry Prorsum remains the biggest spectacle of London Fashion Week. More than 1,500 guests assembled under a dark tent inside Hyde Park. As the show began, the walls retracted and natural light bathed the space. Two white stylized trench coats were the opening looks.


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But quite quickly, colour and texture seeped into the collection. This ruched silk dress in pink and tangerine looks like it has been slickened with a metallic shower. The chic see-through capelet looks like the offspring of a visor and an umbrella.


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Colour became even more saturated as the collection continued. This turquoise coat appears dip-dyed, as the colour deepens toward the hemline. Dropped elbow-length sleeves, oversized patch pockets and relaxed epaulets were subtle updates that also stood out.


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The idea of a sleeveless cape has been explored in couture collections for several seasons, partly because it produces a dramatic, curved silhouette. Here, designer Christopher Bailey presents his version, in inky blue over a lustrous fuchsia dress. Verdict: a flawless red carpet look for when the weather acts up.


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