Famous Champagne brands based in Reims and Epernay in northern France are faced with increased competition from sparkling wines produced in Italy, Spain and many other parts of the world.Thinkstock
It wasn’t that long ago that Robin Leach pulled back the curtain on the lifestyles of the rich and the famous to provide an inspirational bout of “Champagne wishes and caviar dreams.” The globetrotting show, which documented opulent residences and the glamorous destinations, wrapped in 2005 as reality television turned its attention toward the rich and famous-for-being-famous.
Today we’re more likely to hear about “Champagne problems,” a disavowal of stresses and issues in our lives that seem insignificant compared with war, natural disasters and the latest surge of Covid-19.
These versatile spirits are perfect for gifting
In her 2020 song of the same name, singer-songwriter Taylor Swift points out an actual worry for wineries in Champagne: “Dom Pérignon, you brought it. No crowd of friends applauded…”
The famous Champagne brands based in Reims and Epernay in northern France are faced with increased competition from sparkling wines produced in Italy, Spain and many other parts of the world. They are even being challenged by smaller estates in Champagne who offer a point of difference with so-called grower Champagnes, small-batch, often vintage dated bubblies made by families who control every stage of production from the vineyard to bottle.
A number of wine-related content creators from the United States and the United Kingdom who turn up on my TikTok For You page are talking up the value for money of crémants made in Alsace, Burgundy and the Loire. They’re not wrong. These sparkling wines offer appetizing flavours and refreshment at a lower price than even the best value Champagnes. I don’t agree that they deliver the same rich and refined character, but Champagne’s classically toasty and citrusy flavours aren’t to everyone’s taste.
Last year, Prosecco accounted for one out of three bottles of sparkling wine consumed in Canada. Rising inflation and forecasts of a global financial downturn aren’t likely to impact the sales of the competitively priced and agreeably fruity Italian sparkling wine or Spanish Cavas, but it could steer budget-minded consumers away from Champagne. In the meantime, pent-up demand from the pandemic has seen strong sales of Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Krug and Dom Pérignon reported by parent company LVMH.
Taittinger Brut Reserve Champagne (France)Handout
Heading into the New Year, I prefer the sound of Champagne wishes as opposed to problems. The close association of Champagne and New Year’s Eve makes this a good time to stock up. I have my eyes on bottles of Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne and Bollinger at the LCBO. Readers in British Columbia have access to the impressive Champagne Henriot Millésime 2012 and the stylish Champagne Paul Bara Réserve Brut Grand Cru. Other provinces are well stocked with Piper-Heidsieck Brut and Taittinger, producers which come with solid recommendations to buy and enjoy.
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Christopher Waters