From neutral to nuanced, vodka looks to find its character

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When it comes to writing about spirits, most such distilled alcoholic beverages provide ample source material.

The culture and tradition behind various whiskies provides perspective, while innovation is spurred by the multifaceted approaches of producers working in more than 20 countries. The diversity of rum produced in the Caribbean and beyond is endless fodder for articles to help readers understand this oft-misunderstood spirit. Tequila and other agave spirits continue to carve a premium niche, with a proliferation of exciting new small-batch brands to discover. And the craft spirits movement propels gin to new heights, with unique blends of botanicals that add a new twist to the historic drink.

But what’s to be said for vodka? There are only so many ways to say “smooth” in praise of the most memorable attribute of a spirit that prides itself on its flavourless, odourless quality. Taking a page from Jerry Seinfeld’s sitcom, vodka became a spirit about nothing.

As the world’s most popular spirit, it is the base of countless classic cocktails – vodka martinis, vodka sodas, Moscow mules, screwdrivers and Caesars – and yet this bar staple is easy to overlook.

For years, vodka’s most interesting storyline was in following the business angle. How did popular brands navigate such a crowded and competitive category? Consumers were incredibly brand-loyal to Absolut, Smirnoff and others who expanded their product range with a seemingly endless supply of novelty flavours – overly sweet offerings such as birthday cake, bubble gum and candy cane.

The lineup of flavoured vodka continues to expand, but the real excitement now is how unadorned expressions of the clear spirit are embracing flavour. Whether made with grain, potatoes, honey, milk, or different types of fruit, small-batch producers are making vodkas that reveal subtle nuances from the base ingredient. Smooth and neutral are no longer vodka’s claim to fame.

The newly launched Ren Vodka is made in Ontario with sweet corn – traces of which you can taste, along with citrus and spice notes. Ironwork’s unfiltered vodka suggests the blossom aroma and sweet-and-sour notes of the Annapolis Valley apples harvested for distillation, while critics who have sampled Salt Spring Island’s Hive Vodka describe honeycomb aromas and a rich texture from the honey used.

Large brands are also revamping their recipes and looking to innovate. Skyy Vodka is using water sourced from the San Francisco Bay Area, which is said to contribute minerals that impart a “subtle salinity” to its flavour.

Well-made vodka will continue to challenge critics and drinks columnists to find new and inventive synonyms for “smooth,” but thankfully there’s also much more to be said about what is happening behind the scenes, and in the glass, these days.

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