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Is cheese fondue a do or a don't? Add to ...

The question

We’re hosting a large après-ski party in February and I’m considering serving cheese fondue. I am worried, however, that cheese fondue has become too old-fashioned. Should I serve it anyway?

The answer

Cheese fondue became too old-fashioned some time around 1977, but I’d say that’s one of its virtues. Who cares if it’s old-fashioned? So are German Riesling, sheepskin rugs and stretchy ski pants, come to think of it. But they all pair impeccably well with molten, booze-spiked cheese.

Just be sure to make yours from scratch instead of a package (it’s super easy) and to serve lots of fruit, such as tart sliced apples, alongside. And do keep the fondue burners away from those stretchy pants.

Follow food writer Chris Nuttall-Smith on Twitter: @cnutsmith. Have an entertaining dilemma? E-mail style@globeandmail.com..

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