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This tart is a perfect application for quince because the fruit can be cooked to a deeply golden caramel without ever losing its texture.

Crust

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 tbsp sugar

1/4 tsp salt

1/2 cup cold butter, cut into small cubes

Several tablespoons ice water

Filling

1/4 cup butter

1/2 cup sugar

Pinch of salt

2 small-ish quinces, peeled, cored and sliced

Method

Preheat oven to 425 F. In a large bowl, gently mix flour, sugar and salt. Blend in butter with a pastry cutter or cold fingertips. Add water by the spoonful until dough comes together. (Don’t overwork.) Gather into a ball, wrap in plastic and chill for at least 20 minutes.

Melt butter in a 9-, 10- or 11-inch ovenproof skillet (size doesn’t matter as much as choosing a vessel that will release easily). Sprinkle sugar and salt over butter and allow to caramelize briefly. (Don’t worry if sugar doesn’t melt.) Lay quince slices over top in a circular pattern, overlapping if necessary. Cook over low heat for 15 minutes or until quince softens around the edges and turns golden brown. Remove from heat.

Roll about half of pastry on a floured surface to 1/4-1/8-inch thick. (Save remaining pastry in refrigerator for a future tart.) Drape dough over quince, tucking in edges around fruit like a blanket or trimming excess.

Bake on lower rack for 35 minutes or until pastry is light brown on top. While tart is still hot, place a plate securely over top of skillet and invert quickly. Scrape any caramel left in pan over tart with a heatproof spatula, and serve.

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