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Photos by Jennifer Roberts for The Globe and Mail. Read Chris Nuttall-Smith's full review here.

THE CHEFS

The tandoor chef, Mandy Jawle, spent two years as executive sous chef at Junoon, a Michelin-starred spot in New York, while curry man Sujoy Saha cooks with rare deftness and complexity.

THE ROOM

A modern Indian spot, with pop music instead of sitars, and a wine list people would want to order from.

THE FOOD

This isn’t your standard, North Americanized Northern Indian, and it’s a far cry from much of the “upmarket” and “modern” Indian that’s increasingly common. There’s range and yes, spice, and freshness to what Tich does.

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