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Photos by Jennifer Roberts for The Globe and Mail. Read Chris Nuttall-Smith's four-star review of Alo here.

The chef

Until Alo, Patrick Kriss had never cooked his own food, and as long as I’ve been following Mr. Kriss, I could see that grate on him. He wears his ambition – not merely to be a good chef, but to be the best chef – the way many of his colleagues wear heritage pork tattoos.

The room

Even on the third floor of an unknown building at an intersection not readily associated with ambitious dining, they could build one of the most singular and daring and extraordinary new restaurants in Canada, and fill it with ecstatic customers every night.

Bartender John Bunner.

The food

They do not seem to serve or do anything at Alo unless they can do it in its most perfect form.

A Vodka Fix cocktail.
The bread and butter dish.
Peau de lait.
The grape and meringue dessert.