Photos by Darren Calabrese for The Globe and Mail. Read Chris Nuttall-Smith's review of Canoe here.
The chef
John Horne and his kitchen cook with lightness and humour
that so often runs through the experience of eating
here.
The room
It’s true you can’t eat a view, but the one from Canoe will
never, ever get tired.
The food
Over repeated visits in the last six months, Canoe has shown
itself to be a bona fide four-star restaurant. And it’s shown that
20 years can do a place a world of good.
The rockfish fillet is seared to deep-caramel, with B.C.
gooseneck barnacles smoked over cherrywood and set into a
plinth of polenta enriched with powdered popcorn.
Wild and tame rabbit.
Classic a la carte: steak tartare.