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Photos by Darren Calabrese for The Globe and Mail. Read Chris Nuttall-Smith's review of Canoe here.

The chef

John Horne and his kitchen cook with lightness and humour that so often runs through the experience of eating here.

The room

It’s true you can’t eat a view, but the one from Canoe will never, ever get tired.

The food

Over repeated visits in the last six months, Canoe has shown itself to be a bona fide four-star restaurant. And it’s shown that 20 years can do a place a world of good.

The rockfish fillet is seared to deep-caramel, with B.C. gooseneck barnacles smoked over cherrywood and set into a plinth of polenta enriched with powdered popcorn.
Wild and tame rabbit.
Classic a la carte: steak tartare.